Ice climbing northern europe

[TyClimber]

I may have an opportunity to head up to way northern europe and do some ice climbing this fall. My buddy and I are looking at either Iceland or Norway, we are currently leaning towards Norway because its cheaper. Our window of opportunity is in mid November, which is a bit on the early side of things, but from what I have been able to find on the internet we might still be ok. Anyone have input on this idea? Personal experience?

[Mjölner]

I spent 2 weeks climbing ice in Norway over this past christmas/new years. Its totally bad assed. We climbed first at Rjukan which is in Telemark - southern Norway. There are over 150 different climbs and most of them were in when we were there. The climbs vary from 1/2 pitch routes from WI2-WI7 and mixed routes as hard as you want to go. Then there are the multipitch monsters. The bad ass mo-fo of norwiegan ice is a climb called Lipton. Its WI7 and is just sick. There are some other bad assed classics also in the upper gorge area. Most of the approaches are totally reasonable and at that time of year there won't be much snow to mess with either. There is a guide and a web forum for Rjukan at rockfax.com. Its totally worth the coin to get the book.

 

We then spent a while climbing/skiing in Hemesedal which is about 3 hrs north of Rjukan. The ice there is Ok. the approaches are longer and its more crowded. I'd recommend you go to Rjukan over Hemsedal.

 

I was traveling with a group of swedes who had the place pretty much dialed. I can give you more info on where to stay etc if you want in either Hemsedal or Rjukan.

 

Norway is expensive any way you cut it. Make sure that you bring all the gear with you that you'll need cuz its outragously expensive over there. Also - bring all the booze you'll need from the duty free shop on your way over. Booze prices are totally out of control in norway and with those cold, long nights you'll want a good stash!

 

As far as going in mid november - if you go to Rjukan you might be OK. I think its really early season there but that place should always have something in.

 

There are other places in the north to climb - by Tromso on the Lyngen Penninsula. I don't know much about 'em though. Romsdal might have some good ice also but its a costal climate so it might not be too reliable for early season. Damn, there is so much ice in Norway that you might just want to stop the car on the expressway on the way from the airport and start TRing the road cuts!

 

I don't know anything about ice in iceland. None of my scandinavian climber connections have been there to climb.

[TyClimber]

Thanks for the input man. We are aiming at going to Rjukan, it sounds incredible. Hopefully we'll have as much fun as you did.