quickdraws on anchor bolts

[pale]

Hey there..... just started doing some easy gear leads on single pitch routes at the crags with some friends. Just wondering, if once we reach the top of the crag, and there are bolts there, what is the safe and acceptable procedure for being lowered? Often we will repeat the route, ie, one of us will second and then one or two more of our group will then lead it again.

 

What I have been doing, is a little bit tedious, and I'm wanting to save time. Usually I'll set up a TR anchor onto the bolts, but this can be time consuming. So today a fellow suggested we just clip in a couple quickdraws to the bolts instead of a proper TR anchor.

 

So I want to know your esteemed opinions. Is this an acceptable thing for seconding and repeat leads in a crag? Thanks for your time

[Roscoe_M]

Using quick draws to toprope off anchor bolts is pretty standard at most of the crags I've climbed at. Make sure the bieners holding the rope are opposing. As far as cleaning-- You can feed the rope through to bolts if they are ring bolts (beware of the American Triangle effect). If they are not ring bolts you will have to either top out and walk off or leave a small tied sling, beiner, or what ever so that you don't have to pull your rope through the realativly sharp edge of a standard bolt hanger. Chain anchors solve all these problems. When you are confident in your gear leading skill at the crags come on out to the alpine and have some real adventures!

[cluck]

Quick reminder: even if the bolts have chains on them, you should still use quickdraws for your toprope anchor. Top-roping (and especially lowering) with your rope through through the chain wears it down faster. For maximum style points you want to do all your top-roping wear on your own gear, then the last climber removes your quickdraws, threads the rope through the chains, and then rappels (not gets lowered) down.

 

Oh yeah, quickdraws as TR anchors seem to be the norm, but you can always substitute locking biners & short slings instead if that makes you feel better.

[dt_3pin]

I use two draws w/ lockers on the rope ends for a TR anchor when there is a bolted station. I use a longer sling if the bolts are set up in such a way that I can't come reasonably close to equalizing w/ the draws.

[pale]

Thanks for the help. I just wanted to confirm what I've heard. What I've done in the past is bring up a bunch of lockers, and some cord and clip a pre-tied to the anchor bolts. Safe, yes, but not nearly as quick as clipping a couple draws.

 

I am aware of the problem of being lowered or TR'd through chains, causing excessive wear.

 

Roscoe, I have done some seconding on very moderate alpine routes (5.6), and am pretty excited about doing more. For me, the cragging is all in preparation for the alpine.

 

I think my biggest problem right now is that my group of climbing friends all have about the same experience as I do. I need to climb with more experienced folk, and second some harder routes. Also, unlearn any bad habits I may have picked up due to lack of solid mentors.

 

Currently I climb in Squamish, and if you are looking for a partner, please feel free to contact me. I can lead 5.7 on gear, and toprope 10a comfortably.

[Arc]

Thanks.