layton Posted July 10, 2002 Posted July 10, 2002 3rd try is the charm. It felt like I was commuting to work driving back to L-worth and hiking in (Again) the next morning. Things started off well as I stepped into one of the largest piles of human excrement in the moat. I didn't notice till shit smears and stench appeared all over the 3rd class. Necronomicon led the offwidth, way to go dude. I wouldn't bring a big bro like one party I saw carry a while back. Good luck sliding that thing up! The next pitch was mungtackular surmounting the ridge, and a nice little pitch followed. The step down and around was very easy. Lots of 4th class simul climbing followed in crappy loose choss (with one short large crack near the fin). Necro led up the ramp to the fin and the quality of rock got even crappier. Tons of air mail. I'd hate to be below another party! Confusion sunk in as Nelson's guide became useless, and translating the beta was a joke. I led up some awful rock to the right, it blanked out, downclimbed, traversed and got up on a ledge. Short pitch. Led the next pitch, there were those 5.8 twin cracks! Only good pitch on route. Long long pitch. Still somewhat confused, I led up another crack, found the undercling (easy), and headed toward this notch at the crest. I wasn't sure wether to head right through what looked like roofs and choss, or left 10 feet to the notch to summit the fin? I climbed up 15 feet above my last piece up some runout 5.10 sidepulls, realized I shoulda gone right, and was fucked. Still no pro I headed left on sidepulls and a hand traverse w/lichen for feet and flopped through the notch with horrid rope drag. This is the top of the 3rd coulior. Necro lead up on the other side of the fin for 20 feet, and back to the other side through another notch. He let loose an amazing amount of rubble. I followed up and the ground below my feet liquified as I sent tons of rockfall down. One more 3rd class ropelegnth put us on the trail just below the summit. We glissaded all the way down to asguard. On the pass I must've unleashed Pandora's box of insects. Totally swarmed I hopped on the snow and glissaded down the rest of the pass, VERY careful to avoid waterfalls, and their death moats. After hiking out we headed to town to consume massive amounts of food. We were like two coyotes loose on the town searching for animal tissue. Nothing was open! We slid past the folks in safeway as they were locking their doors, and mangaged to grab shitloads of meat and cheese. The gas station was closed, so no beer for us! The final crux was trying to finish my sandwich while staying away. It tooks us 18 hours car to car. My feet were so nasty when I peeled off my socks they were and are a crime against humanity! Both big toenails are falling off, and my left one is all puffy and bleeding. At safeway I managed a land speed of .1 miles per hour. I call this type of activily self-destructexcise. The route looks neat and there are cool views, etc..., but the rock seriously blows, and not much quality climbing. I don't think I'll repeat that line again. I look forward to locking myself indoors and doing nothing for a while. Quote
Climzalot Posted July 11, 2002 Posted July 11, 2002 Atta boy Mr. Layton. I knew you eventually get up that thing. Nice work. Quote
matthewmc23 Posted July 11, 2002 Posted July 11, 2002 I would agree with you Mike. It's a classic position with less than classic rock. Hey, by the way, did you wake up with a mad hangover after the 4th like I did? That was a rad party out at Grant + Daniels. -Matt Anderson Quote
layton Posted July 11, 2002 Author Posted July 11, 2002 No, I was home alone I only get hangovers with wine and sugary drinks making them more of an afternoon drink. Quote
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