[TR] Chair Peak- NE Buttress 2/11/2006

[silent_partner34]

Climb: Chair Peak-NE Buttress

 

Date of Climb: 2/11/2006

 

Trip Report:

TR: Chair Peak, NE Buttress, III WI3 AI3, 2/11/06

 

Never really thought I'd be doing stuff like this. I always considered myself to be a technical rock climber (or I attempt to be competent at such ; ) So when my bro' John initially said that we should climb Chair Peak (a few weeks prior), I thought, "Hell, I don't know how to climb on ice or snow!"

 

But my interest was piqued. John has that ability to push my adventure buttons, and I could always use more of that in my 9 to 5, plod on to old age life. So I took a look at the beta on the web, and reviewed the details in Becky's book. And damn if I didn't start salivating! But we didn't go due to high avalanche danger, and I was a little disappointed.

 

I knew that we would have the opportunity again, and on 2/6 it arose. Dan-o, John, and I decided (well, I was more along for the ride, because of my noob-ness) to climb Chair on 2/11. Dan had done the North face on prior occasions and said that the climb was no problemo. Perfect weather was on the horizon and it would have been sad to miss the opportunity again.

 

2/11 rolls around and John picks my tired ass up at around 6am. We drive over to Dan-o's to pick him up. Alas, he had a gig the prior evening and staggered in at 3am, so he couldn't make it. But his ice axe could, so I took that along for the ride (thanks, Dan-o!). Weather was looking great, until we made it closer to the Pass where the wind hellaciously picked up and started blowing John's truck around like a sail. We both looked at each other and the 'shit' expression was on both our faces. We might not be climbing this trip. Damn!

 

We drive into the parking lot at Alpental and to our relief the wind has died down. As we gear up, we BS with a group heading out for some backcountry touring and a mountain rescue dude who is trying to catch up with friends that left at 5:30am, all of us 'complaining' about how cold it is. Ahhh...yeah it's winter, it's supposed to be cold ; ) John throws on his skis and we start trudging our way up the trail at 8:30am. I won't give you the boring details about the slog (don't get me wrong, I enjoy the winter wonderland); let's just say I need to get into 'alpine' shape, which is infinitely different than general conditioning in my opinion.

 

At around 11:30, we get to Chair and to our dismay there are 6 parties on the North face and 2 parties on the NE Buttress. We hem and haw for a few minutes trying to decide which route to get on. How slow are the groups on the North face? Another party that is waiting for the North face says that there is a group of 3 moving at a snails pace. That cinches it, NE Buttress it is!

 

1st pitch: John leads a pitch of mixed ice and rock that he thought was the hardest pitch on the climb to a tree belay. I can't give an expert opinion on that, but I thought so as well. Especially in my borrowed Stubei crampons (both right feet; thanks, John! ; )

 

2nd pitch: 30-40 degree snow pitch to a rock outcropping. No pro placed. John leads this one as well.

 

3rd pitch: 60-70 degree snow pitch to a WI3 waterfall. This ends up being my pitch. I throw in a picket 20 feet off of the belay for practice and climb the rest of the 150' pitch without pro. Hey, as many of you know, I'm not the brightest bulb in the ceiling ; )

 

4th pitch: WI3 waterfall is John's pitch with both ice tools, since he has the experience. I end up pulling through with the ice axes. Blast!!!

 

5th pitch: 30-40 degree snow pitch. I get the easy snow pitches : )

 

And at the top, we are rewarded with a magnificent view of what seemed like the entire Cascade range. Not too many things come with that kind of pay-off!!!

 

We BS with the afore-mentioned party of 3 (the mountain rescue guy didn't catch up with them), and a free soloist that was there on a personal mission. After taking our hero shots, hydrating, and eating, we head down anticipating grub and brew at the North Bend Bar & Grill. I ate enough for 3 people! (though that's not a surprise, is it? ; )-

 

Not sure if I'm sold on the whole alpine and mountaineering thing, but I had a blast!

Woohoo, my first alpine ascent!!!

[catbirdseat]

First alpine ascent in winter?

[RocNoggin]

nice job! thanks for the report, glad you had a good time. and how could you not be sold on alpine climbing after a perfect day like that?! LOL

[silent_partner34]

Correct. My first winter alpine ascent. I have done various alpine rock routes. Thanks RocNoggin! I should be sold on the winter alpine after that day!!!