Chair Peak SE route 4/27/02

[Norman_Clyde]

I got up early this morning and climbed Chair Peak solo via the SE route, using the more rightward (North) of the two gullies. Left the parking lot on snowshoes at 5:45 am. The temperature was just above freezing, with the commonly seen icy fog obscuring the peaks. There was absolutely no wind. Snow was heavy without crust, with between 1 and 2 inches of fairly light new snow on top. At Source Lake there was the expected old avalanche debris, but nothing new. Snow did not firm up much until after the Thumb Tack. There was some deeper new snow in a few wind-sheltered terrain traps on the way up, but no slabs.

In the upper basin the light was very flat, and it was difficult to assess conditions. Fortunately, the mist lifted a few times, and I could see that the southernmost gully (the lowest angle approach, which I had planned to take) was in good shape without cornices. On the other hand, the SE gully straight to the West looked excellent. Beckey says to avoid this chimney, but I think he means in the summertime.

A big cornice loomed at the top, but at this altitude it was colder, and the surface was firm at last. I ditched snowshoes and donned crampons. The gully gradually steepens to I'd estimate 60 degrees for the last three hundred feet. I had not intended to solo terrain this steep, and was a little tense to see the snowballs I dislodged take off like rockets down the slope, but it's easier to climb up than down at such times. There were no rocks in the fall line, just avalanche debris, although I know how hard those soft-looking snow piles really are.

Conditions in the gully were ideal: the snow was firm enough to take crampon points but soft enough to take the axe shaft. I did use the pick on a few stretches but there was no water ice. I traversed under the 8 foot cornice and heaved over the top with relief.

After this it was moderate slopes to the summit. I decided not to cross the last 20 foot gully to the true summit, and was not able to scope out the N face and NE buttress from above due to large cornices.

I descended the long way, rounding the "tooth" South of the main peak and down the more moderate gully. (I had brought a rope and there was a good rap station above the steep gully I had ascended, but a single rope would not have gotten me far enough to avoid the steeper stuff.) Snow was heavy and soft in the southernmost gully, and it would have been a real slog to flounder up this one. These routes aren't going to stay in shape for long, if it keeps warming.

I stowed axe and crampons, donned snowshoes, and after a few steps decided to glissade. This resulted in the only bummer note of the day: my axe, my beloved Glencoe Walker, came loose from my pack somewhere on the glissade and lies high in the basin East of Chair Peak. This is completely my fault for substituting a cheap Velcro loop this morning when I found that one lower axe loop on my pack was ripped out. I carried two tools the whole way up and down--more foolishness because I'm really not in the league that uses two tools without a belay; so if I'd just left the short tool at the car, I'd still have my axe. But at least I know where it is, for the time being.

The upper basin East of the peak would have been decent for skiing, but below there it was the worst kind of mashed potatoes, heavy as lead. It had warmed up by the time I descended, and though the wet snow I kicked up glissading didn't propagate, there were some small sunwheels forming, 6 inches or so. This was the extent of the snow hazard that I encountered. (All right, on the way up I did also plunge unexpectedly into the bergschrund E. of the face, to a level about two feet above my head, because it was snow covered and I thought I'd already rounded the end of it. Fortunately, no more snow fell in on top, and it was easy to climb out. I did question my wisdom in climbing solo at that point.)

3 hours 2 minutes car to summit. 4 hours 45 minutes car to car.

I'm going to post my axe on the lost and found page, but if any of you cc'ers are up there and find a Glencoe Walker, please email me and I'll come pick it up. I figure that anyone who goes up there must already own an axe anyway.

[sbrook]

Norman,

 

My partner and I came up the North Face and summited at 11. Followed your tracks down to the rappel anchor, rapped off and continued down your accent route. Unfortunately, we did not see your axe anywhere in our path, but it could have been covered by one of the many small releases chasing us down the hill.

 

All in all, the North Face was in decent shape and a lot of fun, but the descent was sloggin' through the junk to get out.

[Norman_Clyde]

My axe will probably be playing hide and seek until later in the spring. I strapped it back on right below the gully, so if it fell off early then you all would have gone right past it. Not much point in looking until more summery conditions prevail.