jmckay Posted December 17, 2005 Share Posted December 17, 2005 (edited) Holiday Greetings, A brief update of the ski touring conditions over this past week on the western edge of the Monashees, 30 minutes west of Revelstoke. On December 17th we found ourselves breaking through the week-long valley cloud and enjoying bright sunshine and a surprisingly good day of skiing on re-crystallized surface snow and a blanket of ‘trophy sized’ surface hoar. Though there was little concern for avalanche hazard that day, the writing was on the wall for things to come with the next storm system. The faceted surface snow that was providing for such good skiing today would soon be covered with the forecasted new snow… The snow pack varied in depth from 85cm at 1700m, to an average of 120cm at 2000m. A couple of quick profiles showed a solid, pencil-hard base layer of 50-60cm. Just deep and strong enough to keep your skis from hitting the logs and stumps which are still very obvious. Directly above this were the remnants of an early December rain crust (2cm/ 1F+), which the typical facets above and below. And above these facets were another 40-60cm of facets and mix forms, blanketed by the aforementioned surface hoar. Felt a bit like ski touring in the Rockies on a really good year! Yesterday morning we awoke to a blanket of new snow in Revelstoke and with high expectations, drove west to exactly the same location. And what a difference a few days can make! We had arrived expecting to find 20cm of new snow and a ‘touchy’, but easily manageable, surface instability. What we found instead was 2-5cm of new snow overlying the surface hoar and facets, then covered by a 2cm breakable rain crust that extended as high as the terrain would allow (2040m). The ski quality was poor. But more importantly, the surface hoar and facets are now protected by the rain crust in this area, and it’s looking like we’ll have a lingering layer to watch through the holiday season. As it stands, the new December 20th layer will now require more ‘load’ to become reactive than it would have with out the rain crust. And the consequences of a slab release would be bigger as well. But who knows, maybe the forecasted rain will flush things out today and tomorrow? Never thought I’d hope for some rain! Have a safe holiday season everyone! Paul Norrie A.C.M.G. Mountain Guide Re:cascade - 2005/12/17 07:20 Hi There I climbed Cascade about 10 days ago and it is as good as it has ever been. I think if you climbed it today or tomorrow it may be an all right (?) place to go. There have however been a couple natural avalanches and a recent ski triggered one at the hill. The cold temps you can be sure are having its way with the shallow snow. I personally would be extremely cautious with this next snowfall scheduled to come in Wednesday or Thursday. Cascade is an extreme lee aspect and it seems that this is where these naturals have been occurring. Later in the week we have a 20-degree warming trend with snow. This I would classify as a rapid change in the energy state of the snow pack, which always throws up red flags in my wee little brain. BOURGEAU RIGHT HAND Climbed the route today. It is in great shape. The snow cover on the approach is thin so there are a few sketchy sections. The walk off descent works with an exposed section to avalanche hazard for about 200 meters along the skiers right side of the large slide path (Bourgeau 7). Marc Ledwidge Mountain Guide _______________________________________________ These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information. Edited December 25, 2005 by jmckay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmckay Posted December 18, 2005 Author Share Posted December 18, 2005 Joshua Levigne and I enjoyed a chilly tour up and over the so-called "Observation Sub-Peaks" today, skiing down the south bowl from the very top of the second peak. Good travel along a well-broken trail into the upper cirque. Past this there was no sign of previous travel due to the fact that the alpine has been thoroughly hammered by wind--with the exception of sheltered S and SE aspects. Ski crampons might be a good idea. Our run down was a big, pleasant surprise--10-15 cm of low density facets on top of a bulletproof crust made for a long sweet run. Below treeline the going is sporty--I busted pretty well every survival ski trick I know. Lots of early season hazards. The glaciers on the north side of Obs/Cirque are totally wind scoured and not worth skiing right now. We observed no new avalanche activity. Some signs of sz 1-2 on SE aspects in the alpine. Some whoomfing and minor cracking on E asp (reasonably sheltered/loaded) at 8000-8300 ft: a 10 cm soft slab with the upper 5 cm being unconsolidated facets. Average height of snow is around 50 cm, a deli sandwich of facets, faceting MF crusts, and faceting windcrusts galore. It doesn't get better than the Rockies in December. Stability -- from our limited observations I would guess Good in the alpine (caution on specific windloaded features), Fair at treeline, and Good below treeline (below threshold). Regards, Tom Wolfe _______________________________________________ These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmckay Posted December 20, 2005 Author Share Posted December 20, 2005 (edited) Skied up to Video Peak (in the Connaught drainage) today to do a fracture line profile at a recent skier triggered avalanche (see photo). Failure occurred on a facet layer above a crust, down 20 - 40 cm. Compression test results were in the easy range. Variable ski quality, with a supportive crust under a dusting of new snow on solar facing slopes, and boot top powder skiing in facetted snow on more northerly aspects. It is a little sporty descending into the valley to get back onto the trail out. Expect alder and some snow covered waterfall ice in the exit gullies. I noticed that people are starting to take a lower and lower line when ascending up the Connaught Valley, at about 3km from the hotel. The slopes off the north face of Cheops are holding snow at the moment, and could result in sizeable avalanches if/when they release. It is more work to stay high on the climber's right side of the valley near the forest trim line (under the 'Xmas Trees') but it is also substantially safer. Ski safe, Jordy Shepherd Mountain Guide (See attached file: Video Peak - Glacier Park.jpg)_______________________________________________ These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information. Edited December 25, 2005 by jmckay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmckay Posted December 22, 2005 Author Share Posted December 22, 2005 Just to update all those people planning their Xmas trip to the interior ranges - it is definitely snowing again and that means that things are changing out there in the mountains. The previous couple of weeks worth of clear and cold weather has left a wide variety of surface conditions - from suncrust to windslab , loose faceted snow to surface hoar - which is now covered with the recent storm snow of the last few days which by most reports is fairly dense giving what is commonly called upside down powder - on other words a soft slab. Currently it is snowing steadily in Revelstoke and it sounds like more is on the way so hazards will only increase over the holidays - so keep alert and drive safely as I am sure that the roads are none too great either. Best of the Season to all, Scott Davis Mountain Guide _______________________________________________ These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmckay Posted December 23, 2005 Author Share Posted December 23, 2005 (edited) Climbed in Field today. Very warm, around 0c in parking lot. Went to start on Cascade Kronenburg, way to wet, Carlsberg didn't have a dry line on it. Pilsner was also very wet, but had some dryer lines. Around 3pm it started to snow at the base of climbs and upon descent to parking lot , turned to rain. Rained all the way back to Golden and is now -1c in G-Town. I would strongly agree with Larry, there is going to be some major avalanche action very soon with the new loading on the poor, faceted snow pack and a variety of surfaces. Take care out there. Merry Christmas. Rich Marshall _______________________________________________ These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information. Edited December 25, 2005 by jmckay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmckay Posted December 23, 2005 Author Share Posted December 23, 2005 (edited) Dec. 19 climbed the rock section of Icicle Fairy with Remy. The ice is very thin and detached so we bailed. The upper pitch looked ok. Dec.20 climbed Polar Circus with Geoff Ruttan. Ice was in good shape, although the second upper tier was a bit wet. Two bits of important info to pass on: 1) The bolts in the middle of the upper tier are garbage...build an ice anchor (This may be common knowledge?) 2) We witnessed significant rock fall while descending which came from above the second upper tier. It came down the route and could have easily taken anyone out in it's path....We were in the right place at the right time. Dec.21 climbed Super Bock with Marco. No debris in the gully made topping out on the short steps in to scree entertaining....sounds the same as Barry's last report. The upper pitch is good and steep. Jesse de Montigny Edited December 25, 2005 by jmckay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmckay Posted December 23, 2005 Author Share Posted December 23, 2005 Out today for a profile trip in the Abbott Ridge area (permanent winter closure). 23 cm of storm snow starting to slab and offering a few shooting cracks. Sporty exit to the valley bottom in the trees with many hazards including some devil's club. Ski quality was pretty good at treeline and above, with some upside down powder and skis diving once in a while. Waist deep on the steeper pitches. The storm continues, moist and warm. Watch out as the load increases. Jordy Shepherd IFMGA Mountain Guide _______________________________________________ These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmckay Posted December 23, 2005 Author Share Posted December 23, 2005 (edited) Went to climb on Mt Hunter(Yoho west) today after abandoning hopes for the Mt. Wilson area. Way too warm everywhere we went. Temperatures were 5c in canmore @6am, 3c in Lake Louise at 7am, 1c in Field @8am. LOTS of cloud, fog and other forms of moisture around. Saw no rain but I bet it fell somewhere and that the snowpack didn't like it. It is not horrendous, but unless it cools the next couple of days could be a poor time to be hanging around under big avalanche paths or big hanging daggers. There were a few very unusual large natural avalanches in the past few days/week so the warm temps will only tweak the snowpack more. A thermometer would be a useful tool the next few days as the forecast temps can be way off the actual temperatures in the mountains at any one place or time. Ice climbing conditions will be great if it cools down and doesn't snow. In the short term however, Santa will know if you have been naughty or nice. Be good and stick to the simple terrain unless you are sure it is COLD and have a Merry Christmas. Larry Stanier Edited December 25, 2005 by jmckay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmckay Posted December 24, 2005 Author Share Posted December 24, 2005 (edited) Climbed Reality Check on the ski hill yesterday. Easy drive to the bottom of the chair. Then laborious trailbreaking to the climb. Snow is thigh deep in sheltered locations and very rotten. Surface hoar is big and widespread below timberline. At -3, the ice was very good. The climb is still a bit chandeliered, but thick enough for long screws. The last 5 m was dripping heavily and overhanging so I abstained. I have no information on where the rain stops and the snow starts, but anticipate very unstable conditions once there is a load. -- Christoph Dietzfelbinger Mountain Guide, Bear Mountaineering and Burnie Glacier Chalet Box 4222 Smithers, B.C. V0J 2N0 Canada tel. 250-847-3351 fax: 250-847-2854 info@bearmountaineering.ca www.bearmountaineering.ca _______________________________________________ These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information. This is pitch 2 of Guiness Gully For More information check out this page Accident on Guiness again Edited December 24, 2005 by jmckay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmckay Posted December 24, 2005 Author Share Posted December 24, 2005 (edited) Apologies - one clarification to previous post, noted in bold Greetings Sports Fans Here is a pre-Christmas South Coastal update : Anyone who has been monitoring the weather and snow reports in the past week knows that something is going on out there, and the next few days may not be the best time to go looking to head for the wild lines to test out your new boards that Santa brought you. That being said, a close watch of the weather and snow condition reports, as they change, will be a real learning experience. These kind of weather patterns can produce interesting results. Conditions at this time are really changing rapidly. The freezing level is going up and down like a yo-yo which each passing front. Reports of up to a metre of new snow in the alpine in the past 24 hours, with significant winds. Also reports of isothermal snowpack below 2000m with the passing warm fronts. The next big event will be today and tonight with forecasters predicting copious amounts of sub-tropical precip (30-50mm) with freezing levels reaching 2400 m. Although this elevation may be slightly lower as you move inland. Winds are forecasted to be up to 100 km/hr. Keep in mind all this new precip is piling up over crusts / facets/ surface hoar in the alpine which formed in early / mid December. Although rain may penetrate through these layers at times in the storm cycles, they still might remain preserved at the higher elevations, and remain a concern for while, even if the skiing gets better next week. Professionals in the Duffey Lake area are expecting avalanches up to size 2.5 in the Alpine and possibly Treeline elevations over the next day or 2. Many guides are reporting snow dissapearing rapidly at the lower elevations (below 1600 m). In fact Diamond Head has no snow in the parking lot, and it was reported to be a 1.5 km walk on before skis became useful (3 days ago). In contrast to higher elevations, most areas lower than 1800 m are below threshold snowpack levels for avalanching, but keep a weather eye for when the freezing levels drop next week. There have been a few folks poking around on the glaciers. Crevasses were beginning to bridge, however confidence in their strength will be low for a while yet. Some useful sites to monitor over the next few days will be : Whistler.Blackcomb avalanche forecast- http://www.whistlerblackcomb.com/weather/advisory/index.htm Whistler/Blackcomb alpine weather forecast - http://www.whistlerblackcomb.com/weather/forecast/index.htm CAC Public Avalanche Forecasts - http://www.avalanche.ca/ Merry Christmas! Brian Gould using climber web sites Edited December 24, 2005 by jmckay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmckay Posted December 25, 2005 Author Share Posted December 25, 2005 Located on the Alberta BC border. This is one of the nicest places I have ever worked. Great terrain and well managed lodge. I included a few photos of the area. and a slideshow link. a relay from Dave B. at Mistaya Lodge, Recent storm snow accumulation 30cm as of this morning, temps hovering near zero. Winds in the valley strong and variable, mountain tops have been obscured for the past few days. Heavy trail breaking, ski pen to mid calf/knee depth.Mistaya Lodge Slide Show Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmckay Posted December 26, 2005 Author Share Posted December 26, 2005 (edited) Lifted from parks site. This is going to remain till temps cool so if you coming out here over the holidays keep this in mind We definitely stepped into HIGH avalanche danger today. Widespread natural avalanche activity is occurring. Moderate to strong southwest winds have created new slabs, 20-40 cm thick. Most of the slides reported are up to size 2 on all aspects in the alpine and at treeline. If the terrain allows for it, some fracture lines have propagated up to 80 m wide. Slabs are failing on the old snow surface, the November rain crust, or have stepped down past the old hard slab to the weak depth hoar at the base of the snowpack. For the last 24 hours it has been drizzling rain up to treeline. Most gullies are running with wet snow avalanches. All of the ice climbs in the Field area have debris in them and continue to run with wet avalanches. Time to stay out of avalanche terrain until temperatures cool and the snowpack has time to adjust. Parks canada Native kids climbing in Rogers Pass Edited December 26, 2005 by jmckay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted December 27, 2005 Share Posted December 27, 2005 That's a really cool shot! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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