Evolution of Aid to Free

[catbirdseat]

I was having fun reading through old guidebooks lent to me by Roboboy and comparing old descriptions to newer ones. Of course many routes that were aid went free. Usually the rating went up but sometimes it went down, either due to sticky rubber soles or cleaning of the route. A few examples follow:

 

Orbit (1965), 5.8/ A3, 33 pitons, 4 bolts

Orbit (1996) 5.8+, four stars, Pro to 3"

 

Remorse (1965), 5.7/ A2, 40 pitons, 5 bolts

Remorse (1996), 5.8, two deathheads ®, Pro to 3"

 

White Slabs (1965), 5.9, 12 pitons

White Slabs (1996), 5.7, Pro to 2"

 

White Fright (1965), 5.7/ A4, 20 pitons

White Fright (1996), 5.9+, one star, Pro to 2"

 

Saber (1965), 5.3

Saber (1996), 5.4

Saber (2004), 5.5

Edited December 9, 2005 by catbirdseat

[MisterMo]

I'm pretty sure your '96 ratings for Orbit, Remorse, and White Slabs were the accepted ones before 1970 (though obviously after the Orange guide came out.

 

Don't know about White Fright, never climbed it or knew anyone who did.

 

As for Saber, guidebook ratings tend to be established by fairly highly talented individuals for whom there might not be much perceptible difference between 5.3, 5.4, 5.5, etc.

 

Mixed up in all that was some of the curious "us vs. them" bs where gradings in certain areas were easier or harder than others. Peshastin was supposed to be "soft", with climbs 1 or 2 points overrated. Squamish, on the other hand had gradings reputed to be a couple of points lower than actual difficulty

[ScottP]

Usually the rating went up

It isn't unusual for first time visitors to the Valley to find that 5.9 is, in actuality, A1.