AAC News - November

[Dechristo]

Sorry 'bout the tardiness of posting this:

 

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Dear Club Members,

 

Thank you for the astounding and heartwarming answer to our call to help the

high mountain villages in Pakistan devastated by a magnitude 7.6 earthquake. The

lobby of the American Alpine Club filled with boxes of tents, sleeping bags and

winter clothing. They spilled down the hall and surrounded the climbing wall. On

November 21 and 22, the AAC staff and dozens of volunteers spent two full days

packing the gear and clothing for shipment, sorting carefully to make sure that

everything that goes over is of adequate winter quality. Inappropriate items

were donated to Goodwill in the Denver area.

 

In addition to individuals' contributions, we received or facilitated the

following generous corporate gifts:

 

 

* Wild Things: 100 sleeping bags

 

* Climb Axe: 110 pairs OneSport boots and 100 overboots

 

* Indigo Equipment: 100 pairs of gloves

 

* International Mountain Guides: 20 tents

 

* Jackson Hole Mountain Guides: 10 tents

 

* American Alpine Institute: 20 tents

 

* Patagonia: Three large boxes of new clothing, plus 21,000 items being

shipped directly from Paris

 

* Everestgear.com: Matched purchases made for this effort

 

* DHL: Shipped collected clothing and gear for free from Golden to Pakistan

 

* Pakistan International Airlines: Free shipping from New York to Islamabad

 

* Trango: Donated boxes for shipping

 

Thanks also are due to the New York Section's Todd Fairbairn, Holley Edelson and

Phil Erard, who collected gear in Manhattan, saving time and shipping dollars.

 

Greg Mortenson of the Central Asia Institute will be checking in with the Alpine

Club of Pakistan to help ensure that mountain-ready tents, sleeping bags and

winter clothing go directly to the mountain valleys where it is needed. We also

have raised more than $15,000 in cash from generous members, which the Alpine

Club of Pakistan will spend on medicines and food to send along with the

clothing and shelter. Currently the plan is to take the equipment by truck, jeep

and then donkey up the Kagham Valley (above Balakot toward Nanga Parbat) and the

Neelum Valley (east of Muzzafarabad).

 

Separately, I want to applaud some other efforts that we are aware of. I

communicated with Tex Bossier of Patagonia Europe, which is sending 21,000 items

to the Alpine Club of Pakistan for distribution. The North Face has launched a

program very similar to ours. If you missed the opportunity to donate to this

effort, you can drop off gear at a North Face store near you until November 23.

Check locations at http://www.thenorthface.com/na/news/news-20051111.html.

Pakistan's citizens will face many long-term needs as a result of this

devastating earthquake. Once people get through this winter, there will still be

1.2 million children without schools. We are working with Greg Mortenson of the

Central Asia Institute to determine how to help with this problem as the snows

melt in the spring.

 

Again, I want to thank all of you. Your prompt response and generosity have been

extremely gratifying.

 

Phil Powers

Executive Director

ppowers@americanalpineclub.org

 

 

EXCITING SPEAKERS SET FOR '06 MOUNTAIN FEST

The 2006 AAC Annual Meeting and Mountain Fest, February 10-12, in Attitash, New

Hampshire, will feature a superb line-up of speakers. Headlining the

Saturday-night dinner will be a rare talk by George Lowe, one of the key figures

in North American mountaineering history. On Friday night, the great Indian

climber and author Harish Kapadia will introduce us to some fantastic climbing

opportunities in the Indian Himalaya. Saturday-afternoon speakers include Vince

Anderson on an alpine-style first ascent on the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat, Sue

Nott on alpine climbs from Alaska to Europe and Asia, Joe Terravecchia on the

huge but little-known rock and ice climbs of Newfoundland, and Alexander Ruchkin

on the punishing first ascent of the North Face of Jannu and the Russian

approach to alpinism. Add to this the usual camaraderie of AAC meetings and two

days of climbing clinics on the short but stout ice cliffs of New Hampshire, and

the 2006 Mountain Fest will be one to remember. Registration materials and

lodging information are now available at

http://www.americanalpineclub.org/community/events-annual.asp

Important note: Mid-February is peak ski season in the White Mountains. Please

book your lodging and make travel arrangements as soon as possible!

 

AAC GRANT FUNDS HOT SEASON IN PERU

Andy Wellman, a 24-year-old from Colorado, enjoyed a superb season in the

Cordillera Blanca of Peru, thanks in part to a Mountaineering Fellowship Fund

award from the AAC. Wellman and James Woods completed the second ascent of Karma

de los Condores (IV 5.11d) on Hatun Ulloc and then continued up the unclimbed

upper reaches of the tower to within 60 meters of the top, where filthy cracks

halted their one-day attempt. Wellman and Woods repeated the 1972 Czech ice

route on Pisco Oeste's South Face in 10 hours, and then, with Tyler Anderson,

made the second ascent of the direct South Face of Mururaju (aka Nevado Pongos).

Along with numerous other ascents, Wellman completed a creative goal on his

third attempt: a one-day round trip from Huaraz to a Cordillera Blanca summit.

He and Anderson took a taxi at 4 a.m. to Jancu and climbed the Northeast Face

and North Ridge of 5,434-meter Huamashraju to the summit, descended to the base

at dusk, and then rode mountain bikes in the dark for two hours back to Huaraz.

Mountaineering Fellowship Fund grants assist climbers 25 or younger with

exploration and cutting-edge climbs. Get more info at

http://www.americanalpineclub.org/knowledge/grants.asp.

 

MEANWHILE IN HUASCARAN NATIONAL PARK...

Action is still needed to help reverse new regulations that would dramatically

alter the climbing experience in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru. The UIAA

recently approved a motion introduced by AAC President Mark Richey: "The UIAA

strongly encourages that the PNH [Huascaran National Park] and INRENA [Peru's

interior department] work cooperatively with their Peruvian Mountaineering

Federations and those of other countries with an interest in the park to

establish and adopt policies and use regulations regarding climbing and trekking

within the PNH that are fair and beneficial to both local and visiting climbers,

environmental concerns and the local guiding agencies as well."

 

If the new regulations are implemented as written, climbers will only be able to

access the most popular peaks and routes (an estimated 80 of the 600 or so known

routes within the park), must climb with a local mountain guide (at a ratio of

one guide per two clients), and will not be able to visit the park between

December and March.

 

To voice your concerns, email Leoncio Alvarez Vasquez (Mr. Alvarez) at

lalvarez@inrena.gob.pe . Please copy any emails to Mr. Alvarez's assistant at

jbarrios@inrena.gob.pe and to the head of protected areas, Carlos Salinas, at

csalinas@inrena.gob.pe . Though communication in Spanish is ideal, any language

will work. See a copy of Mark Richey's letter to the Peruvian authorities at

http://www.americanalpineclub.org/docs/R...ez--9-2005.doc.

A background article on Huascaran National Park regulations by AAC member Jim

Bartle is posted at www.americanalpineclub.org/docs/2004_Winter_AAN.pdf.

 

NOMINATIONS SOUGHT FOR SOWLES AWARD

The David A. Sowles Memorial Award is given to mountaineers who have

distinguished themselves-with unselfish devotion, at personal risk or sacrifice

of a major objective-in going to the assistance of fellow climbers imperiled in

the mountains. The award was established in 1981 and is dedicated to the memory

of David A. Sowles, who was killed at the age of 29 during a lightning storm in

the Alps on August 4, 1963. Letters of recommendation are currently being

accepted for this prestigious award. Nominations should be forwarded to

committee chairman Charley Mace at charleymace@comcast.net .

 

JAPANESE ALPINE CLUB CELEBRATES CENTENNIAL

In October, the Japanese Alpine Club celebrated its 100th birthday, and AAC

President Mark Richey, along with Teresa Richey and past Vice President Linda

McMillan, joined the party at a gala dinner in Tokyo attended by nearly 1,000

people. Richey delivered an address celebrating Japanese accomplishments in

world mountaineering and chatted with His Imperial Highness the Crown Prince of

Japan about their shared passion for wild places. He also made a brief, rainy

visit to the granite crags of Ogawayama. You can read Richey's address to the

Japanese Alpine Club at www.americanalpineclub.org/JAC_address.html.

 

LUMPY RIDGE TRAILS DAY

For the fifth consecutive year, the AAC hosted the Lumpy Ridge Trails Day in

Colorado's Rocky Mountain National Park. This year, 63 volunteers collaborated

to improve climber access trails to one of the most popular and photogenic rock

features at Lumpy Ridge: the Twin Owls. The NPS provided six trail-crew

employees who worked with the volunteers to complete a facelift over 500

vertical feet of extremely rugged trail. More than 130 wood and rock steps and

seven drains were installed to help check storm runoff and act as stairs. For

more information on this event please visit

http://www.americanalpineclub.org/community/section_central_rockies.asp.

 

ARTIST NEEDED FOR POSTER DESIGN

The AAC is looking for a skilled artist or designer to volunteer his or her

talents and create a poster for the 2006 Annual Meeting and Mountain Fest. If

you're interested in lending a hand, contact Lloyd Athearn at

lathearn@americanalpineclub.org .

 

GREAT GEAR AT GREAT PRICES!

Just in time for holiday shopping, the AAC soon will launch its annual online

auction with dozens of great items to bid on, including clothing and gear from

sponsors such as Patagonia, LEKI, Montrail, Mountain Hardwear, JetBoil, Asolo,

Lowe Alpine and The North Face, along with beautiful photography, guided trips

and more! All proceeds support core member services like the American Alpine

Journal, the AAC Library, rescue insurance, and mountain conservation. Please

stay tuned for details; we will be sending you an email with all you need to

know.

 

CLUB SEEKS MARKETING INTERN

Interested in marketing and nonprofit development? Like to hang out with

climbers? The AAC is seeking an intern to assist with marketing and fund-raising

projects. Contact Nigel Gregory at 303-384-0110, ext. 15, or

ngregory@americanalpineclub.org.

 

MAKE YOUR ANNUAL GIFT ONLINE

Considering a year-end gift to the AAC? It is now easier than ever with the

introduction of an online giving program. To make a contribution, please visit

this link:

www.blacktie-colorado.com/online_sales/nonprofit_donation.cfm?id=1392. Or go to

the AAC website at www.americanalpineclub.org.

 

COMING EVENTS

November 30-December 1

Colorado

Susan E.B. Schwartz presents a slideshow based on her new book Into the Unknown:

The Remarkable Life of Hans Kraus, about the pioneering Gunks climber and

physician. Nov. 30: 7 p.m. at the Denver REI, 303-756-3100; Dec. 1: 8 p.m. at

Neptune Mountaineering in Boulder, 303-499-8866.

 

November 30-December 1

Washington

Andy Selters presents a multimedia show on the history of mountaineering in

North America, based on his award-winning, AAC-published Ways to the Sky. Nov.

30: 7:30 p.m. at the HUB West Ballroom, University of Washington, $10;

206-522-1677. Dec. 1: 7 p.m., Western Washington University, Bellingham;

trepanc@cc.wwu.edu or 360-650-7533.

 

December 2

Massachusetts

Come to the Boston-area climbers' annual holiday bash, sponsored by the

Appalachian Mountain Club's Boston Chapter Mountaineering Committee and the AAC

New England Section. Info at www.atkinsopht.com/mtn/aacnesct.htm.

 

December 2

Colorado

The Backcountry Bash, a fund-raiser for the Backcountry Snowsports Alliance with

music, slides and gear auctions, will start at 6:30 p.m. at the downtown Denver

REI store. Call 303-494-5266 to purchase tickets.

 

December 4

California

Nick Clinch will regale the Sierra Nevada Section with tales from the 1960 first

ascent of K1 (Masherbrum) at the section's annual holiday dinner and party in

Berkeley. Cost is $48. To sign up, send a check to Ellen Lapham/SNS, 15215 Monte

Vista Drive, Nevada City, CA 95959. Tel.: 530-265-9117.

 

December 4

Colorado

A memorial service will be held for longtime mountain guide Mike Donahue, who

passed away in November. The service will be at 2:30 p.m. at the Aspen Lodge,

seven miles south of Estes Park on Hwy. 7.

 

December 16-17

Nevada

The 3rd annual Tahoe Adventure Film Festival, with films, guest speakers and a

giant action-photography display. Info at www.laketahoefilmfestival.com.

 

January 21

Colorado

The Central Rockies Section will host the premiere of "Skiing the High

Himalaya," a film by Mike Marolt. The evening will include food, drink, a "Lost

Images" show in which climbers will try to identify historic photos from the AAC

archives, and the new film of ski descents on Shishapangma and Everest. $20 for

the full evening at the American Mountaineering Center in Golden. Info at

http://www.americanalpineclub.org/community/section_central_rockies.asp.

 

January 21-22

New York

The New York Section's annual Adirondack Winter Outing, with ice climbing,

skiing and hiking. A formal invitation will be mailed to regional members around

year-end. Or, contact philiperard@nysalpineclub.org .

 

February 10-12

New Hampshire

The 2006 AAC Mountain Fest and annual meeting will be based at the Attitash

Grand Summit Hotel, smack in the middle of the White Mountains.

Climbing clinics, camaraderie and slideshows. Make your travel and lodging

arrangements now. See all the details at

http://www.americanalpineclub.org/community/events-annual.asp

 

 

E-NEWS POLICIES

In order to protect the interests of our subscribers, we have established the

following E-News policies. The AAC office in Golden is the only source of

outgoing messages to subscribers; recipients cannot respond to or initiate

messages to the list. The AAC will not sell member e-mail addresses to anyone

for any purpose and will have no commercial advertising of any kind in E-News.

 

Send comments, suggestions or news items to dougald5@comcast.net .

 

If you know an AAC member who isn't receiving the E-News, it's probably because

the AAC does not have his or her email address. New addresses or address changes

should be sent to getinfo@americanalpineclub.org .