TR Rating?

[fenderfour]

In another forum, Blowboarder said:

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I don't think it's much harder than 12d on TR, FWIW.

Leading it is a much different story.

 

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He/she has applied a rating to a climb when it is toproped. I've seen it elsewhere. Maybe it's just me, but I always thought that a .12D climb is a .12D climb regardless of how you get up it. Granted, leading a .12D takes a lot more skill and testicular fortitude than a toprope, but that doesn't make the moves of the climb any harder than .12D.

 

Is this the "New Wave" of ratings for climbs, or is this a contrived load of crap? Does anyone really give a shit?

 

Do I need to down-grade my climb of Moscow since I TR'd it? What will that do to my 8a.nu score?

[Blake]

i think it's the same either way, the moves are the same, the rock is the same. As you said, leading is still harder, but the route doesn't change to become harder, just how we handle it is harder. Even if you were the bravest climber in the world, and being on the sharp end meant nothing Vs. TRing it, the time and energy and thinking needed to place protection would make the route more strenuous.

[TrogdortheBurninator]

The route in that thread was an uber-thin seam. What happens when a climb is impossible to protect without plugging good jams? I think that is one situation where a comment such as this is semi-valid. On a sport climb or infinitely protectable splitter IMO it is more of a mute point.

[archenemy]

I have testicular fortitude, but I still just call the climb's rate as whatever the friggen book says. It's not like folks don't already know that leading a climb is different than following. Now belaying, that's a different story. I belay at 5.13b, but I hope to work up to 13c soon.