terrible_ted Posted July 23, 2002 Share Posted July 23, 2002 Hi: Over on the Johannesburg discussion, a mention was made of a 'knife edged snow arete w/ 30' dropoffs' leading to Gunsight notch. Does anyone have any tricks for accessing the East face otherwise? Maybe traverse via the west face after Cache Col? We're planning on camping along Pelton Creek. Some of the party members will be pretty green, so I can't really use anything too heroic ("hanggliding off Johannesburg"). -t Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tread_tramp Posted July 23, 2002 Share Posted July 23, 2002 Ted, I was up there with JoeK this weekend. A 30 ft. chunk of rope anchored to a picket would easily get you in and out of the moat. A couple years ago I climbed the east face with very similar conditions at gunsight notch. The snow finger is getting thin at the top and will no doubt deterioate more in this heat. Becky also tells of a north ridge route that avoids gunsight notch, although I have no experience with that route. ralph Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terrible_ted Posted July 23, 2002 Author Share Posted July 23, 2002 Hi TT: Excellent! That's just what I wanted to hear. I was planning to haul an extra line up with the hopes of being able to fix our way around the problem, and by the sounds of your response, it should prove "do-able." I'm sorry you guys had to bail. Out of curiosity, were you guys doing a one-day alpine attack, or did you camp in the basin? I'm curious because I couldn't tell how far down in the basin the snow extended (although it seemed to be all the way to the creek). It seems that permits for Pelton basin are awfully limited... -t Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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