[TR] Old Settler- Southwest Buttress 9/24/2005

[Dr.Hook]

Climb: Old Settler-Southwest Buttress

 

Date of Climb: 9/24/2005

 

Trip Report:

In an effort to bag an end of the season alpine rock route Jesse M and I made our way up to the Settler. After an unsuccesful trip to the Manatees this summer that involved a 3 1/2 day walk out I was amped for the easy access and short hike to achieve the alpine. We had been two weeks before with a third to climb Duck a l'Orange but were rained out after helping a couple of campers on the Talc N FSR who burned out their car battery by leaving the headlights on to set up the tent (woops). Returning Friday morning the 23rd we expected to be able to drive in as two weeks previous. When we arrived at the gate just before 8:00am it was locked. After driving through the logging camp looking for someone with a key the hippy treeplanters mentioned they were logging up the Talc Cr. N. during the week and there was no access. We drove back and decided to walk up the road leaving the car at 9:00am. Between km3 and 4 we encountered the the logging team who with a bit of mild persuassion from Jesse were generous enough to let us pass safely.

 

We arrived at the roads end and started up towards the lake encountering a huge black bear in the avi swath below the steep forest. Once again Jesse with a bit of mild persuassion got us past this last obstacle and we achieved the lake by 1:30pm for lunch. We had orignally hoped to climb one of the more challenging routes but considering our time restrictions we headed for the SW buttress which looked like a fantastic line and were at its base climbing by 2:00pm.

 

The route was absolutely spectacular and is the best local moderate alpine rock route I have climbed. Bomber rock, great features and a beautiful position. We simul climbed to the summit in just over 2hrs hussling and were back at the lake by 6:30.

 

We made our way down the steep forest as the sun set and back at the road in total darkness. This was followed by the 10km pilgrimage back to the car which we achieved at 10:30 about 14hrs after starting out.

 

The crux of the trip was actually the drive home, 6hrs without food had taken its toll on our attention span. We had to stop before reaching the paved road for a coupla glorious 10min power naps. After a meal in the 'wack it was the stay awake sing-a-long to the classics (I hate RUSH) to get us back to the city by 2am.

 

Gear Notes:

Shoulda called the forestry company to confirm access before leaving Vancouver, we would have been better prepared for the march.

[Dru]

 

We were gonna go up there today but called ahead, and heard about the gate Why couldn't they log in the summer when it was raining

[Geek_the_Greek]

Why couldn't they log in the summer when it was raining

 

Because the soil would get all compacted to shit, eh? Aren't you supposed to be an environmental consultant?!

 

Sounds like a fun trip up Mt. Dru!

[jmace]

Just a note on the loggers, they were extremely nice and to let us through was more than we expected. The machines they were operating were masssive and once they shut them down and let us past we swam through logging debris so deep I started wondering if they let us past just to see us drown in this madness. After 10 -15 min we finally hit the road again but kept moving becasue the fallers were dropping huge trees that just roared as the fell and we were scared! On the way home we were pleaseantly surprised to see the road cleared for easy passage but monster logs littered the enbankment.

 

What an amazing hunk of rock!!