jmckay Posted August 26, 2005 Share Posted August 26, 2005 (edited) Mountain Conditions Summary - Rockies and Interior Ranges Issued August 25, 2005 A bit of a change to mountain conditions this past week – especially on the eastern side of the Rockies. A typical “third week of August” snowstorm crossed all regions mid week, leaving various amounts of new snow behind. This upslope storm was focused mainly on the Bow Valley and Lake Louise areas. Regions to the west and north were spared the full brunt. Roger’s Pass, the Columbia Icefields and the Bugaboos received about 5-10 cm, which was melting away rapidly on Thursday. Expect good conditions in these areas over the coming days, with fresh snow lingering on the north facing terrain. In the Lake Louise area, observations the day after the storm put the snowline at about 2200m, just down into the treeline. Depth increased rapidly with elevation to about 30 cm of snow observed at 2500 m. Add to this the drifting effects of wind, and pockets of new snow up to 70 cm can be expected at higher elevations. With the good weather forecast, it’s likely to be a great weekend and hopefully some of this recent snow will settle and/or melt away. Alpine climbing in the Lake Louise group will require some serious thought - with drifted snow in excess of 75 cm in the alpine, and a return to warm temperatures . . . put your avalanche thinking cap on! Stick to ridge crests and watch out on the big faces. No doubt the mountains will be shedding the new snow over the next few days. Be wary of steep, sun-exposed terrain where both avalanches and rockfall may be a concern. On the glaciers, watch for crevasses bridged with a thin skin of recent snow – it’s probably difficult to see crevasses that may have been visible just days ago. In summary – it looks like an awesome weekend to be out, things have changed but lots of good options for alpine and rock climbing still exist. Conditions are better in Roger’s Pass, the Columbia Icefields and the Bugs. In the Lake Louise area the big serious north face routes will be out of shape, but moderate routes and low elevation (or front range) south/west facing rock should clean off nicely. Lets hope this sets us up nicely for good mixed climbing in September! Grant Statham _______________________________________________ These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information Mount Huber Glacier this is a possible descent from Victoria Neal Coligan hut area Picture taken fro the air 26th Aug. Edited August 29, 2005 by jmckay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmckay Posted August 26, 2005 Author Share Posted August 26, 2005 Climbed the standard N. ridge of Mt. Begbie yesterday with Barb and the kids. The glacier approach is about 70% bare but pretty grippy (crampons are not necessary if you are careful) and there are crevasses that require avoidance. People typically consider this a benign glacier and travel it with no rope. There are definitely slots here that could gobble you up so tell your friends to be prepared. The access to the 'ledge' is good at the moment but could change as the schrund grows. This ledge access gets longer as the glacier shrinks, there are now two narrow bits where protection of novice climbers is a good idea, one at the start and the usual one midway (which is now equipped with two bolt anchors at either end). Straight up from the ledge is some of the best climbing quartzite you will find anywhere, beautifully featured and solid, you can make it as spicy as you want. The ridge is in great dry shape until the last step where about 2cm of the white stuff fell on the 23rd. A classic climb in a beautiful setting. Cheers, Jim Jim Bay Mountain Light Tours Ltd. P.O. Box 1789 Revelstoke, B.C. V0E 2S0 mtnlight@telus.net Ph. 250-837-6655 ?_______________________________________________ These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmckay Posted August 26, 2005 Author Share Posted August 26, 2005 Aug.24 Fidelity 1950m 1400 hrs Temp:12 deg. No Precip all day Rogers Pass 1330m 1400hrs Temp:15 deg. No Precip all day Wind S 15 Snow still sprinkled on SirDonald, Rogers and Bonney Aug.25 Crystal Clear blue day. Snow on south faces mostly gone, glaciers are pretty bare of new snow, some (2-5cm) sticking still above 2200m. Anna Brown Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmckay Posted August 29, 2005 Author Share Posted August 29, 2005 (edited) The Assistant Alpine Guide Exam is based in the Lake Louise area this week Photos from the air Lake Louise Group and area. [ http://www.live-the-vision.com/wwwboard/messages/16148.html Aug 27 Grassi Ridge - dry Bass Buttress, Castle Mtn - a few wet bits on the last 2 pitches Aug 28 Mt Whyte traverse, Lake Agnes to Plain of Six - generally dry with some remnants of snow left over from the recent storm Mt Carnarvon - dry The Alpine Guide exam is also active in Lake Louise and Rogers Pass Aug 27/28 - Traverse from Collier/Vic col to Mt Whyte, with a bivy at Unnamed/ Popes col. Good alpine travel conditions, some remnants of snow from the recent storm, isolated drifts of 20 cm with some up to 40 cm. No avalanche activity noted. Talked to the other AGE group on the radio who were on Tupper in Rogers Pass, from Carnarvon. Sounded like good conditions but a front was approaching from the NW. Wireless internet at the Alpine Center. Cool Mark Mark Klassen Mountain Guide mark@alpinism.com www.alpinism.com _______________________________________________ These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information. Having trouble with the size of the Rockies this site might help. http://mckay.informalex.org/forum/ Edited August 29, 2005 by jmckay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmckay Posted September 1, 2005 Author Share Posted September 1, 2005 The Assistant Alpine Guide Exam was at the Columbia Icefields Aug 30 Boundary Glacier - North Glacier circuit (and vice-versa), up to 2900 m elevation at A2 col and below N Face of Athabasca Up to 10 cm new snow from Aug 29 precipitation event. Variable conditions in the old snow beneath, occasionally punchy just above firn line, firm at higher elevations. Lots of thinly bridged crevasses. More new snow evident at higher elevations, windloading with mod-strong northerlies turning to westerlies at ridgetop over the day. Significant wind pillows noted on the Silverhorn. Suspect slabs on the Silverhorn and the ramp on the regular route. On Aug 31 we were on Eisenhower Tower and Mount Louis. Both were dry. Mark Mark Klassen Mountain Guide mark@alpinism.com www.alpinism.com _______________________________________________ These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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