Chopping Block

[armin]

I am looking for beta on the northeast ridge of the Chopping Block. Has anybody climbed it recently? What is the best descend route? thanks and cheers

[Juan]

Is that the 5.5 Carla/Joan Firey route? I did it in late July 1987. We were young and dumb, but found our way up and down the peak no problem, and up and down the Barrier no problem either (though the gully had snow in it -- it likely won't now).

 

Fun route; go get it!

 

John Sharp

[armin]

I don't know if that's the Carla/Joan Firey route. It's on the northeats ridge and according to Beckey a 5.5. Did you rappel the route? I heard the anchors are really bad.

Thanks for the info though.

Armin

[Alasdair]

Three raps down the route and you are fine. Anchors may or may not be ok, so take some webing and make your own if they are bad.

[armin]

What's the best way up the Barrier? Beckey says 2000 ft, Jim Nelson 2200, neither one of them looks inviting.

[Crackbolter]

Here is the barrier. I suggest trying the gully.

[Juan]

Armin:

 

N.E. Ridge (II 5.5) was first climbed by the ground-breaking Firey party, I believe. Look at the complete route description in Beckey and you will see their names, if memory serves me. It's a fun route. We did it in July 1987 with mountain boots, and our camp was a fair distance from the Barrier.

 

 

Have fun up there!

 

John Sharp

[armin]

Thanks for the pic, Crackbolter. How do you approach the gully? From Terror Creek or by traversing from Terror basin?

[Crackbolter]

Here is a pic from the top of the barrier...

 

Cross the slabs as if you plan on climbing West Mac. Read Jim Nelson's info in Selected Climbs Vol 1.

[Alasdair]

There was a thread on this about a month ago with info about how to get over the barrier. I think it is in some TR about McMillan spire in a day. I am too lazy to look it up, but you should be able to find it.