Uber Generic Stuart NR questions

[TrogdortheBurninator]

Hoping to maybe climb NR stuart this weekend and thought i'd ask the typical logistical Beta questions. Not sure if I should try upper or complete, so I'll ask about both. Did some searching, but a lot of these questions seem pretty conditions dependent so I was hoping to get as current as possible. I am not a crazy alpine hardman, so please keep that in mind with your responses (ie not wanting to use a nut tool to descend scary exposed ice in tennies).

 

Are crampons and axe nice to have for upper/complete/neither?

 

Is water still available on route?

 

If so, is water typically running, or should we bring a stove to melt snow?

 

What is the best approach/decent option if climbing either complete or upper and having two weekend days (trundle factor??) and friday night availiable?

 

Most people suggest a doubled over 60m half rope to climb the upper ridge. Will this system work on the pitched out sections of the lower ridge, or are logical pitches longer than 30m.

 

On the gendarme, would a #4 C4 be overkill, or is it worth it if you don't want to scare yourself too bad?

[TeleRoss]

Do the complete NR. No crampons nor and axe are needed. I think the Ingalls approach is easier due to the ease of descent. Although going Stuart Lake is easy too. And if you're planning on spending the night after the climb it is easier to return to your camp than the Ingalls approach.

1 60m is enough.

No water on route, although there is plenty at the base of the route. There was water in the Cascadian a couple weeks ago and the other day there was a dripping snowpatch on the N side of the W Ridge somewhere when we were coming down.

The #4 comes in handy. We brought a fairly large rack for the route to allow us to simul long distances without having to rerack...super nice.