[TR] Emmons Glacier 8/8/2005

[ryland_moore]

Emmons Glacier, Mt. Rainier

 

Headed up for a climb of the Emmons after a solid rec. from Mike on climbing Rainier from this side in August. Went with Desk Jockey, his 14 year-old son, and a sport climbing friend of mine from Redmond.

 

Day 1: Headed up to Sherman via a different approach than I've ever taken. Because the Inter glacier is in such poor condition and the rangers have had to evac several folks off in the last week, we were strongly urged to go to Glacier Basin, then cross White River and head up switchbacks around Mt. Ruth and take a dirt and scree trail up to Curtis Ridge. Also, because the descent down onto the Emmons from Curtis Ridge is so dangerous, we were told to climb up and over the Prow! Last time I did that, I got yelled at by rangers who called it a death trap!

 

Once in Sherman we talked to two guys who came up over Curtis and used the Emmons to get to camp. They both said that it was the scariest thing they've ever done and that they thought they were almost going to fall off the traverse several times. Looking at it, you can see where the descent turns really steep (an area usually covered by snow earlier in the year) and since there are no rocks to hold onto, you are clawing at scree and dirt.

 

Day 2: Hung out in camp and waited for friend from Redmond to show up who hiked in that day.

 

Day 3: We left for the summit around 12:20 pm. The glacier is most broken up right out of camp on the way to the Flats. The corridor is in amazing condition with styrofoam cramponing all the way up. The route takes a long traverse over to the Winthrop Glacier crossing several crevasses (nothing more than large steps) and a few snow bridges that may collapse soon, but you can just go a little further out and cross them in a new area.

 

The route brings you to the saddle between the summit and Liberty Cap, then heads up to the summit. Summitted at 7:30 am. Not too fast, but just right.

 

Some of the best conditions I've seen on the Emmons ever, were one of two parties on the route, and all in all an amazing trip. Only tough thing was not being able to glissade the Inter glacier and hiking the dusty and scree-filled trail back to glacier basin.

 

The area looks so different than when I've been up there in the past in May and June. The weather was stellar and good climbing with friends. Hope to post pics soon.

 

p.s. for the mountaineers who had the fall a few weeks back, we saw your stuff getting flown off by helicopter so it should return to you in the near future.

Edited August 10, 2005 by ryland_moore

[knelson]

Just FYI, and for future information seekers... I'm pretty sure you didn't go over Curtis Ridge to get to Schurman. CAMP Curtis is the low point on the ridge between Mt. Ruth and The Prow. Curtis Ridge is the big rocky ridge radiating down off Rainier, towards the right - as you're standing at Schurman looking at the mountain.

 

Depending on conditions, the route over the Prow can be a nice shortcut. You still need to traverse some pebbly scree slopes though before you get to the gully leading down to Schurman.

 

-kurt

[ryland_moore]

You are correct. We went through Camp Curtis, not over Curtis Ridge. There was a party that left the parking lot before us and went up the Inter glacier and we beat them to Schurman, so it can be faster. Although, when the Interglacier is in good glissading condition, there is no way it would be faster to descend around Mt. Ruth then glissading Inter glacier. Also, the NPS does not like to send people over Mt. Ruth becasue of some rare alpine plants that can be greatly affeced by increased foot traffic to this area and discourage anyone from going this way unless safety is a factor.

[knelson]

Did you get a feel if going over St. Elmos Pass, and up the Winthrop might be a good alternative to get to Schurman this year?

 

When I was reading that other trip report here on the Emmons - where they went over St. Elmo's and onto the Winthrop for a crevasse rescue refresher (if I read that right) - it seemed kind of wierd to hump back over to the Interglacier Oven, when you were already on the Winthrop.

 

Just curious for future variety...

 

-kurt

[ryland_moore]

I am sure it could be done. However, I could only see the lower Winthrop from up high and at an angle. The Winthrop just below camp before disappearing by the Prow lookd really broken up. So, it may actually take longer to come up the Winthrop to camp then head back over St. Elmo's Pass, up the Inter, and over the Prow to Schurman, depending on how much end-running of crevasses you'd have to do. Also, if someone was just planning on doing the Emmons, they may not have the gear required to go through an "icefall" (if you would even call it that) like tools and a few screws. It would be a cool area to explore though!! Also, I am not positive, but do not think that Curtis Ridge has seen an ascent yet. Looks like if it was rimed up well, it could go like a Yocum Ridge type of deal but on a 14k peak. Could be pretty cool!

[Norman_Clyde]

Curtis ridge has not only seen several ascents, but it was also the scene for a particularly awful rockfall-induced accident for a 1969 ascent party. Molenaar's book recounts the incident in detail. Jim Whitaker also describes his part in the rescue operation in his autobiography.

 

In the words of the sage:

"Of all the major routes on Rainier, Curtis Ridge probably has the highest potential for rockfall...an example of the need for speed on Curtis Ridge is illustrated by the 1969 tragedy in which valuable time was lost in surmounting the 75-ft vertical step, thereby placing the party beneath the highest rock band in the warm late afternoon."