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Mount Fricaba via Royal Basin? anyone been there?


jjl

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Hi, I'm thinking about a trip to Royal Basin, then to Mt. Fricaba, heading over the ridge south of peak 6686. From the map, this looks pretty straightforward, I'm just wondering if anyone has been up there & what your thoughts are.

 

My concern is that I'll be bringing my girlfriend, who is a little unsteady with steepness. She's done a few things & is a trooper generally, but I don't want this to be a stress-out trip. I'm just concerned there is some unmapped gnarly 10-ft pitch where she'd balk. I don't the distance & elevation gain would be problematic.

 

My reason for picking this is we could camp maybe just below Fribaca, technically outside the park. I don't have a permit for Royal Basin, and don't have the time to pick one up anyway - this is a weekend trip.

 

Anyway, there is very little info on the www about Fribcaba...

 

-Jonathan

jonathan@phlumf.com

www.phlumf.com

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Been right there. We went in reverse of your plan. Went to camp handy, then took the trail to the right that follows right next to the dungeness. We crossed over through a brushy meadow, and followed Milk creek up to south of 6686. We camped there, high in the basin, then continued up a short distance the next day, and dropped through the pass into Royal basin. Not technical, but lots of work. No trail up milk creek, although there looks like there might have been one at some time. Lots of work, brushy, some scrambling, but a nice hike.

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I wandered my way up Fricaba from Royal Basin several years ago. It was early November and there was a decent amount of fresh snow cover. I imagine when the area gets melted out the shoulder of Fricaba is a rotten pile of loose rock. But once the ridgeline is gained it seemed solid enough, if I remember it was straight forward 3rd or 4th class at most. I did it at night by moonlight. That was a pretty cool experience. I'm not even positive I summitted, the ridgeline just kept going and going. I'm not sure I ascended your proposed route, I headed up towards a saddle between Fricaba and Deception. I didn't hit the low point of the saddle, I stayed a little closer to Fricaba, and like I said the ridge itself was easily negotiable and pleasant. It was mostly snow but there was some exposed rock.

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I'm not sure how it would work as far as camping just outside of the park boundary but still w/in Royal Basin. On another trip I camped in Deception Basin and didn't see another human the entire time until I dropped into Royal Basin.

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Thanks for the info, very cool! Was the slope between the "6686 saddle" and Royal basin anything to worry about? I would almost wonder if there is some sort of boot-path there as the basin is so popular. I know I wouldn't have any issues with it, I'm just trying to have perspective of someone who isn't so experienced with a lot of scrambling (i.e. my girlfriend). As for actually reaching the summit of Fricaba, that's optional & I might just go up solo.

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As for camping "technically outside the park". We did this on Mt. Gladys in the south end of the park to avoid the restrictions at nearby Flapjack Lakes. The rangers were fine with it - not much they could say anyway. We had no crowds and excellent views. The poor sardines at Flapjack lakes had hordes of mosquitoes to deal with!

Anyway, once you get over that ridge, you're outside the park & not "in" Royal Basin anymore.

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You can view the whole slope from Royal basin, and we came down that. It would be a little steep if it was snow covered, you would want an ice axe for sure, both sides. But if bare it is an easy walk up and over. Probably the best way up fricaba is to turn south up that drainage, the one that eventually goes into deception basin, then turn east up to the top of fricaba, a rather winding unimposing summit. I did the hike with ted of talkeetna.

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