Black Peak

[Mike_Buker]

I plan on approaching via Heather Pass and Wing Lake; any Beta out there?

[mark]

We did the N.E. ridge. My notes from the climb are below. Every bit of this approach and climb is very straight forward. We started the approach from highway 20, and didn't go all the way to Heather pass. Instead at 6,200 ft there is a trail that cuts to the right, take that to Lewis lake. Hike around Lewis lake and without to much trouble you'll find another way trail that leads up to Wing lake.

We climbed the N.E. ridge(which I thought was excellent) and descended the south route. Both routes offer very straightforward route finding. The south route is heavily cairned.

The view of Goodes N.E. butress from the top of Black can not be beat.

Enjoy

 

CLIMB: BLACK PEAK - NORTHEAST RIDGE

DATE: 9/16-9/17/00

THE PARTICULARS:

The approach - follow the very good trail past the cutoff trail to the lake and take the first way trail that branches to the right (6200ft elevation). When you get to the talus field look for a trail that skirts along its down hill margin, it is easier going than the talus hopping. Circle around lewis lake and find the way trail on the other side that leads up to Wing lake.

The bivy - plenty of camping at either Lewis lake or Wing lake.

The route - Nelson/Potterfield description is spot on.

The descent - easy and well cairned. No steep snow this time of year.

The rack - one 50 meter rope , we had 5 cams, 2 medium sized hexes and 5 stoppers size 4-8. Cams worked best. Would have been better to have 3 or 4 more (could have made longer running belays).

The time: Approach 3.5 hours to Wing Lake.

Route 1 hour from the lake to the ridge. 3.5 hours on the ridge.

Descent 1 hour to descend the south ridge route.

Another 2.5 hours back to the cars.