Flexor tendon strain

[andrewbanandrew]

About six weeks ago I was bouldering in the gym with my right middle and ring fingers in a pocket when my feet popped off. I didn't let go fast enough and I felt a 'tick' in my forearm, followed surprisingly little pain. After some investigative stretching I discovered that if I loaded my right ring and little fingers with their DIP joints flexed, I'd feel pain beginning from the tips of these fingers and ending somewhere in my forearm. I iced and took some ibuprofen even though there was not a significant amount of swelling (I had to look hard to tell). I did not lose any range of motion.

 

Stupidly I only took ten days off and began climbing again on 'easy' stuff. All was well until ten days ago, when I reinjured them traversing at Marymoor. I suppose I was asking for it (Eric if you're reading this you've every right to laugh your ass off).

 

I don't plan on climbing for at least another 4 weeks. I'm planning on waiting until I feel no pain when loading my fingers, and then waiting an extra two weeks just to be sure.

 

I'd like to know if there's anything I can do beyond massaging, stretching, and icing my fingers. I sprained an ankle pretty badly last summer (couldn't walk for a ten days or so) and contrast baths helped reduce the pain and get my range of motion back, but I'm not sure how helpful they would be for this injury. I'm also wondering how long it will be before I can go back to pulling hard on it.

 

I suppose now's the time to make up a tick list of slabs...

[Bigwall]

Andrew,

 

Hey, sorry to hear you're injured. Been there a few times in the last 25 years of climbing. I'm sure you're hearing lots of different advice so thought I'd lend mine.

 

You are doing the right things now to heal up. Down the road

patience will be the most important part of your recovery (and the most difficult). I've healed in 3-4 months. YMMV. Tape the joint for support, and as a reminder to take it easier. Slab climbs will help take the intensity off your fingers. How about hand cracks too? One of the Climbing training books has a section about healing those pulley tendons. They recommend climbing lots of big open grip holds for weeks.

 

Lastly, I have come to believe that gym climbing is more likely to cause me injuries than climbing outside. I don't climb in the gym anymore and haven't had any pulley injuries in a decade. Something about all the thin crimps without the natural variety of position one encounters outside. For what it worth . . . Good luck, Tom

[andrewbanandrew]

So far I've rested for three and a half weeks. I still feel moderate pain when loading the two fingers at their tips so I'm not sure if I should start climbing or keep resting, but I'd really like to start climbing even if it were on easy stuff. Anyone have any more advice?

[Drederek]

Well I always try to get back up to speed too soon and just end up elongating the healing process. That said I've always eventually healed up. I try to do nothing that hurts it but I'll do stuff and if it doesn't hurt any worse the next few days I'll keep doing a little. I'm sure this is no help to you at all but you are not alone and you will get better.