South Ridge of Snowdome Pk

[robertm]

South Ridge of Snowdome Pk. (8740 ft.) II+ 5.9

Snowdome Peak is located above the Dome Glacier aprox. 1/4 mile North of Dome Peak. The climb begins in the col between Flat Top and Snowdome (Snowdome on climbers left from the flats of Dome Glacier). Climb is on excellent granite and is 8 pitches in length.

Route:

Pitch1: Proceed over the gendarme/tower in col (5.5) pitch2: Climb up short ramp and left avoiding obvious clean offwidth (this looks good but didn't have gear to protect). pitch proceeds to the left of the crest and then back on crest after some difficult moves and tops out on a small gendarme (5.8) pitch3: Maybe the coolest pitch with awesome exposure and views out to Glacier peak, Hydromatic spire and Dome glacier. Proceed out onto the face (left of crest) into a central crack system. Climb the crack up the face and then move right back onto crest under roof. (5.7). Pitch4: Crux pitch. Climb obvious splitter hand crack left of ridge crest up and over lip. Proceed along left side of ridge encountering a solid finger crack system. These moves are exposed and exhilarating up and onto a face/ramp. Complete the pitch by following ramp to a belay (5.9). Pitch 5: Climb ridge crest up and down into a notch via exposed downclimbing or possible rappel from horn (5.7). Pitch6: Climb the ridge crest and slightly right to avoid overhangs and difficulties (5.5). Pitch7,8: Climb on the exposed ridge crest and enjoy the view on sold and moderate climbing to the summit (5.4).

Descent: Proceed north on class three ledges until able to proceed no further. You should be looking across at Overdrive tower. From here look down and right (east) and you will see a rappel that will take you to a col. From the col head north and proceed down (west) a third class gully to Dome Glacier. There is some loose debris in the gully so either stay close on the descent or go one at a time.

Notes: don't know if this has ever been climbed before... wasn't in Beckey. Was inspired by a picture in a Washington 2000 calendar taken by John Marshall from a airplane. The climb was well worth the approach in combination with Dome peak traverse as described in Select Climbs Vol. I. We also went to do Gunsight but as my earlier post indicated the E. Face appears to be changed dramatically. There is a ton of good rock up in this area and I am sure a ton of new routes to be had. My pictures are back and turned out pretty good now I need to get them scanned so I can post.

Let me know if anyone needs any additional details.