[TR] Stuart area tues-wed- west ridge 6/17/2005

[crazy_t]

Climb: Stuart area tues-wed-west ridge

 

Date of Climb: 6/17/2005

 

Trip Report:

Hiked up onto Stuart tues, expecting partly cloudy with improving wed. It started snowing by 1:30 as we were crossing by the lake and continued either snow or wind 'til maybe 3 am. That snow was melting and running water over the route during the day, then froze later day and in the am, icing up ledges and cracks. Made a bivy most of the way up 2cnd gully, semi-heinous night out (no sleeping bags). Next day got back on track, but slow moving and adverse conditions from the day before hinted at epic possibilities and made a call to turn around just at LJT.

 

Notes: snow free to Ingalls Pass. There is running water in a few creeks on way up Pass, and some directly on other side. Snow on other side sporadically- snowshoes would be a waste of effort but gaiters necessary, and expect some postholing getting to and around lake. Water available at lake also. Ingalls was snow-free on routes, looked pretty straightforward to get up above the lake via the slabs and snow patches. The talus under E ridge notch was mostly clear of snow.

 

On Stuart, there are still snow patches coming up 1st(2cnd) and LJT gullies. Snow underneath surface is getting harder/icier, bring crampons and maybe even a screw or a small picket. There was some running water lower on the route in the daylight, but don't count on it. Plenty of snow patches though for melting water. Most of the snow from tues melted during the day wed.

 

Saw a nice mountain goat with baby goat on way down. At base of gulley, heard rockfall, ducked behind a rock and watched a dorm-fridge sized boulder hurtling 20' overhead. Probably kicked off by the goats.

 

Gear Notes:

should have brought down booties for bivy! Axe, crampons, some snow pro would be a good idea.

 

Approach Notes:

see above

 

See attachment for crappy image of Stuart from tues noon

Edited June 17, 2005 by crazy_t