Maude - N. Face

[Smoker]

Well after reading all that I saw about Nelson's listed approach thru the Jack/Maude col. I had to investigate for myself.

Sun 6/24 we reached the col. around 5:30. Temps were very cold, light breeze. The snow was hard styrofoam, in other words PERFECT!!

We descended straight out of the col. using dagger pos. and front points about 2-300' then executed a descending traverse for about 1/2 mile for an overall drop of 4-500'. We didn't have an altimeter with us so use your head and follow your nose.

The traverse followed the tops of cliff bands with zero room for error. Any missed step on the traverse is a serious mistake. Big air is waiting for any fall here. Softer snow would ease the traverse but make for crappy conditions on the N face proper.

The ascent of the North face was sweet in the temps we encountered. The final 150-200' goes off at 60 degs. We had lots of stone fall as the sun warmed us near the finish.

We left the rope in the pack and simul. soloed the route, moving out side by side for the final 60-deg pitch to avoid the obvious hazard of stacked climbing. The final 20-ft was solid water ice. We each had an axe and tool and had no difficulty getting solid sticks. (Unlike the gumbys behind us with 80cm axes and ski poles, they aborted into the choss pile that’s exposed at the finish and durn near bought the farm!)

All in all a great route (with the proper tools) the crux being said traverse and or the 60-deg finish, you decide.

Jim, the approach is viable. It is not for faint of heart, but what else should be expected on a more advanced line? Maybe only the descent elevation needs modification. It sure beats the hell out of the Icy Lakes/many moons approach.

That's my .02

Smoker

ps-what I want to know is how the hell do you get off that thing with any grace?

[This message has been edited by Smoker (edited 06-25-2001).]