Pickets Memorial Day weekend?!!

[geordie]

Someone went into the southern pickets over memorial day weekend - can't wait to see the trip report if you know who these guys are.

GR

 

[Darren]

That would be me and 3 friends. We made the approach (snow at 4000) Friday and set up camp at the 6200 foot saddle over looking Terror Basin. This took just over 8 hours. Snow was typical for this time of year. Firm in the morning and shade and then turning pretty messy in the afternoon. We climbed West McMillian Spire on Saturday and set off several small wet snow avalanches on our way back to camp. Our plan was to climb Degendardt on Sunday, but a huge cornice blocked the approach gully through the Barrier. We then decided to climb Pyramid via the West ridge. We climbed steep snow and 4th class rock directly up from the glacier to the Degenhardt/Pyramid col and then scrambled the ridge from there. On our way down we noticed about half of the cornice blocking the approach gully for Degenhardt had collapsed creating a decent size avalanche. Needless to say, we were pretty happy not to be there when it happened. Our decent was made without incident. We camped that night and then back out to the cars on Monday. All in all, I would say now is a great time to be there. We traveled exclusively on snow back and fourth from camp which made for happy feet and the glacier was in great shape. I've never seen it late in the year, but we were able to travel in a nearly strait line from the toe of the glacier to the top. I hope this is helpful. Let me know if you have any specific questions.

[geordie]

Nice work. Take any pictures along the way? What does the Chopping Block look like from the East- esp NE ridge?

thanks in advance.

GR

 

[Darren]

Thanks! It was a great trip! As for the Chopping Block, we never got a close look, but from looking at my photos the entire N, NE side looks to be snow free.

[geordie]

The bushwack isn't that bad (try marble creek instead..) The camp in terror basin is one of my favorites - nice running water, pretty flowers, durable gravel surface, decent views. enjoy.

[na]

I'm planning a July trip to Inspiration/McMillan. I hear varying reports of the amount of bushwhacking in Goodell Creek and the Terror Basin Trail - what was it like for your party, Darren? Also, the Beckey guide mentions campsites "below the McMillan spires" - did you see any likely looking spots during your climb. If so, where?

Steve