S Arete and SW Couloir of S Early Winters Spire

[Gerg]

Weather:

Morning clouds. Flurries most of the day. Afternoon sun. Temps in the mid to upper 30s

Approach:

Snow shoes. Trail to 500' below climb was mostly compacted. Upper climb/traverse to base of climb was on moderately firm 2" crust over 8-12" of soft snow over hard crust.

S Arete Route Report:

Fun mixed snow and rock route. Still lots of firm snow on route. Sheet of 1" ice on left side of chimney at top of 2nd pitch. Best protected with #2 camalot in flare at top-right of chimney with backup nut protection at base of chimney. Otherwise, no notable difficulties. Most belay stations were melted out and accessible. Rack of nuts and 0.5, 0.75, 1, and 2 camalots was more than sufficient. No need for snow anchors.

Descent:

Simul-downclimbed the SW Couloir. Snow was fairly soft, making for easy plunge stepping (would not be fun had we being going up). Running belay was easily protected with rock protection. Two or three sections of rock that were beginning to melt out in middle of couloir, but still mostly covered with snow. Chockstone is visible, but still mostly covered with snow.

Car to Car--12hrs, including requisite break at 4:20

[This message has been edited by Gerg (edited 04-16-2001).]