TR- Mt Hood South side

[RJB]

After checking the weekend weather report I decided to try to climb Hood this morning before work. Didn't make the decision till about 9pm last night. I quickly layed out all my gear, packed it up, and hit the sack. Being a noob to Mt climbing and never having been up before I decided to get a later start instead of asending by head lamp.

I left Vancouver at 4am and arrived at the lodge around 5:20am. The top of the mountain was clearly visible! I was Stoked! Walked around for a few minits wondering if I needed a snowpass to park till I spotted a sign that sayed passes were needed till April 30. Cool! Filled out the registration form. Grabed my gear and hit the trail @ 5:50am

From the Silcox hut area I could see a line of climbers jammed up on the hogs back. I figured they would clear by the time I got up there. After 45mins they had not moved. I passed a few climbers comming down that had gone as far as crater rock. All complained of "soft snow". It seemed fine to me, as long as you did'nt stomp through the thin crust.

Once I gained the kitchen the weather started closing in and the wind picked up. Visibility was down to 50 yards or so. Met a BIG group from a Mazama's class. Must have been over twenty. Some summited, others decided to bag it.

I donned my crampons just before the shrund and headed around the hole someone fell through last week.

The pearly gates seemed to be in good shape, although I have nothing to compare to. Visibility dropped to about 20 feet. I stopped to put on my parka. The snow and freezing rain stung bare skin.

I was not sure how far the summit was or where. I wondered how smart it was to be there alone, but my desire to reach the top drove me on. I followed the boot tracks till they stopped. "That seemed to short" I thought. Exploring around I could find no other tracks or higher ground. Only the large cornice lip to the north was higher. I stayed back from the edge by the last of the boot tracks. Snapped a few self portraits, took a drink and bailed at 11:05.

Visability was now down to nothing and the ice was driving into my eyes. I cussed myself for leaving my glasses in the truck. I grabbed the trusty compass for a bearing. It sayed south was off to my left. "no that can't be right" I thought. "that's what I get for buying a compass at WalMart". "Well it's worth a try!" Step by step SLOWLY feeling my way down while wiping ice from my scorched eyes. All at once the soup cleared for a second and I saw the route down. "I knew my trusty compass would never fail me" (it was dead on).

Plung stepping down at a fast pace through the gates I picked up speed. Having a point of reference sure helps your balance. I slowed and gingerly crossed the bergshrund and dropped onto the hogs back again. The group I had passed was still there so I snapped a group photo for them and told them to visit this site for the pic and other great info for new climbers.

Leaving them with one eye on my watch I shed my crampons and starded glissading.

Made it back to the truck by 1pm signed out and got to work by 2:30!

[RJB]

High hopes for a clear day.

Weather building through the pearly gates.

Tears of joy at the spectacular summit view!

A look back on the way down.