Dru Posted June 27, 2005 Posted June 27, 2005 Microcracks, if left unnnoticed, can quickly grow into a ferocious burkshard, and then you're really in trouble. Rowr! Quote
Blake Posted June 27, 2005 Author Posted June 27, 2005 Forget I ever asked this question. I just got done with 2 different 100' tyrolean traverses and some crag exploration/development on my NON-BELAY LOOPed 5oz harness, and all is good. Quote
Tumblemark Posted June 28, 2005 Posted June 28, 2005 Dru, there ARE NO cases of belay biners being broken by belaying! If you can come up with a few examples with enough data to determine the actual cause of failure, please do so. (If you do, please start a new thread in the climbing forum. Hint: your cartoon biner isn't a belay biner.) The only reason to flog this deceased equine is that it's on a newbie forum and someone might come across it and actually believe what Dru has said. BTW: your skull is spinning in the wrong direction. Quote
Dru Posted June 28, 2005 Posted June 28, 2005 Dru, there ARE NO cases of belay biners being broken by belaying! Â On the contrary, there are several cases. Just because you are ignorant doesn't mean they didn't happen. You can probably find them on the British Mountaineering Council website if you look hard enough. I can't be bothered. Quote
Dru Posted June 28, 2005 Posted June 28, 2005 Oh wait, it took me 2 seconds to find some with Google http://www.uiaa.ch/article.aspx?c=312&a=564 Quote
catbirdseat Posted June 28, 2005 Posted June 28, 2005 Dru that one doesn't count and you know it. The biner was broken because the figure eight device caught on the gate and broke it by its leverage action. Quote
Dru Posted June 28, 2005 Posted June 28, 2005 Sounds like a belay biner being broken to me. Sounds like triaxial loading (in this case the third axis is the fig-8) to me. Doesn't sound like NO CASES to me! Â The same mode of failure can theoretically occur with any belay device attached to a biner by a hard loop... Fig-8, Gri Gri, that stupid Omega Pacific one, etc. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.