Drederek Posted April 23, 2001 Share Posted April 23, 2001 I know it ain't in the cascades, But I am looking at Resolution Arete at Red Rocks next week. Other than Swain's route description (which I heard wasn't that great) I know nothing. I've climbed some of the area classics and my limit is PG-13 (Fiddler on the Roof). Any info would be valuable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Climzalot Posted April 23, 2001 Share Posted April 23, 2001 I know the information that follows is not the worthwhile route beta you may be looking for, but a friend and co-worker of mine climbed the resolution arete last year and called it one of the best long free route he has done. Coming from him I did not take this lightly as he has climbed tons of worthwhile rock routes from here to Patagonia. I hear the crux is an 11a finger crack that splits a narrow arete in a spectacular position. If you give it a go, let us know how it goes. Good luck and enjoy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drederek Posted May 4, 2001 Author Share Posted May 4, 2001 Resolution Arete in a day. One Long Day. One Very Long Day. What a route. Big hike and scramble, instant exposure on pitch one as you traverse out over a deep chimney to an easy to protect ,bizarrely featured OW. And it just keeps getting better and more surprises all the time. Two bolts on the whole route. All gear belays except one. We left the tropicana at 4;30, started climbing at 6:30, Got to the crux pitches as the sun went off them about 1, really started moving after pitch 10, its 3:30 and it gets dark about 7:45, 8 pitches later its 7:45 and its dark, the moon is just over half and smiling down on us, I lead out with my headlamp looking for the 5.2 gully with some 5.8 moves so we don't have to bivy, can't go too far as the wind came up as the sun went down, one pitch to a tree (mostly 4th) and another ending up a short chimney with loose rubble in the topout, we can see the summit, its 9:30 and 65 degrees with a brisk wind that eases as we descend, beautiful moonlit slabs (no headlamp) sw towards first creek drainage, cross the saddle and down more slabs to the wash, Boulder hopping reminiscent of JT for hours, finally to the desert by 1 AM, onto fatbugers and the hotel at 3:30. If you think you can do this route you should. The PG and R pitches were not as bad as you would think. The crux roof is very doable. D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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