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Posted

I have not been up there lately, but if you are going you may want to check this route out. I climbed it in April of 1999 in cold conditions. There was a lot of firm snow and a few short sections of 4th class/low 5th rock. It would really depend on snow conditions. If there's been a lot of snow then the tough rock sections may be covered. I climbed the couloir solo at night by headlamp and bivied on the ridge before traversing to the summit. I've been up the brothers 4 times and I think it's my favorite route.

 

The second photo shows the route using the old guide book's hand drawing. The photo was taken from where the red dot is on the topo.

 

Bring an ice ax and crampons but don't bother with a rope or protection.

 

310mid_Couloir.JPG

 

310Mid_Couloir_2.JPG

Posted

From the looks of them from bremerton they look to have gotten a good dump and if snow conditions are anything like what they were on hurricane ridge this weekend I would wait a few weeks. There were several feet of new snow and a couple weak layers that would make for a hair raising climb. IMHO

Posted

Speaking of which... My mind is wandering... as I recall, the Brothers' south face drainage narrows down, like a "V", to a singluar little gap in the lower rockbands below... the 'keyhole' - you pass right by it on the standard ascent route... (you can kind of make it out on the sketch that mneagle posted, altho' his route goes well above it)... in any case, just imagine all the snowslides that could be coming down off the s.face (even as I write?), huge masses of snow blasting into and thru that little gap in the rock... the mind reels at the forces...

Posted

I would definately stay off it till the snow settles better. I watched 3 avys set off when the snow hit the southern aspects of pershings today. Snow hasn't settled very well and is mostly heavy and poorly bonded from what I saw.

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