Conditions and 2005 Planning Information

[Mike_Gauthier]

If you're interested in getting up Rainier in 2005, consider planning an early season attempt. The weather pattern we have been experiencing may significantly change this spring, but as it stands now, the mountain looks "summer-like." For example, many of the trails at Paradise are already melting out and rangers are digging out the summer path up Panorama Point. Summer camping restrictions are in affect for the park.

 

I've spoken to a number of summit bound teams and many say that they are already crossing sketchy crevasses on the Ingraham Glacier Direct. Some didn’t make the summit because of it. At this time, I don't have "specific" route information.

 

Those interested in climbing routes other than the Disappointment Cleaver (DC) and the Emmons/Wintrhop Glaciers should definitely consider an early season attempt. I traversed the entire south side of the mountain last week (between 8K and 10K); though the glacier travel went smoothly, it was apparent that the snowpack will quickly melt exposing more crevasses and ice. Routes like Liberty Ridge may be difficult to access in May and June if this weather pattern persists. Already, the lower elevations on many ridges such as Success, Kautz and Liberty are melting out. It's my gut feeling that we will receive more snow this spring, but spring snowfall doesn't seem to "stick" as long as winter deposited snow.

 

Routes such as the Disappointment Cleaver and Emmons Glacier are more difficult to predict. The guide service works hard to ensure the DC is climbable throughout the summer. 1992 was also a very low snowfall year, and I recall the DC and Emmons Glacier routes having climbable lines well into September. In 1992, those routes became icy earlier in the season. This makes random crevasse falls through snow bridges less likely, but does increase the falling hazard on glacier ice. My sense is that the mountain will be climbable by the DC and Emmons in August and September, but may be more circuitous and icy.

 

I’ll post more information when it comes in.

[Jarred_Jackman]

Any thoughts on the Mowich Face routes (icefall and north route). If I were wanting them to be nicely setup (better frontpointing, drier rock) would you say this would be a good time, or later season as many seasons seem to be, or does this year just not look as good for these routes?

 

thanks to anybody with info

Jarred

[Mike_Gauthier]

Jarred

 

Of course it's difficult to predict; the Mowich Face routes will probably fair well compared to routes like Liberty Ridge and Success Cleaver when it comes to early season melt.

 

Of course, a lot of spring snow fall can change everything (it's snowing in Longmire today.) The Mowich Face routes, tend to set up nicely in Sept/Oct, that is if you like hard glacier ice. If you want frozen snow, then I would suggest a spring trip.

 

Wish I had more specific info for you, I'll post if anything comes up.

[Jarred_Jackman]

Mike

Thanks, I don't expect a play by play of the route. I know it changes on a dime. I was mostly wondering about the late season set up and if that would still be the case, as you mentioned. I thought we might not have gotten enough snow, which might push Sept into June, which might mean that in Sept I might just find a lot of rocky crap! I imagine that route doesn't hold a lot of excess topical snow though so maybe a low snow year doesn't matter as much for those steeper routes, maybe they're just icefests in the late summer no matter what. This is good as I would like to do it later rather than sooner.

 

Thanks for the post. Hope life in Longmire is still good.

Jarred

[tinkie_winkie]

Mike,

 

New to the site so I'm trying to figuer it out as I seek info on the Sunset Ridge route. Plan on climbin the first week of April. My sense is that this route does not see that much traffic. Sounds like you approach up the West Side Road (WSR) 11.5 miles, hike up to Klapatche Park, past Tokaloo Rock, and camp @ 8,000' on the Tahoma Glacier north of Puyallup Cleaver. I've heard that the WSR is washed out/closed 2 mile up so people are mountaining biking to the trail head. That necessitates a retracing of this route rather then a carry over. I've heard that coming down the Puyallup Glacier and hoping over the cleaver to find the Tahoma camp is doable. I'm most interested if this information is accurate? Also, due to a lack of snow this winter, is there any hard ice on the ascent up Sunset Ridge or down the Puyallup,especially where its the steepest between 11,400' and 13,00'? What would you think of skiing to our camp on the Tahoma via Van Trump Park? Is there enough snow? I've read you advice on climbing the mountain early this year cause things are opening up earlier d/t lack of snow, but I didn't get a sense of what was going on on this side of the mountain.

 

Thanks a lot for you response in advance. Hope you have a safe season there.

 

Jaysonringel@hotmail.com

i.e: tinkie_winkie

[Duchess]

Retracing your steps isn't necessary , and would require a lot of extra time and energy. Some people bike up the road, but an uphill bike ride with a huge pack is seriously unpleasant. Most people hike - then you can descend a different, shorter route (like the DC). Check out a map and a guidebook - some of your orientation seems a little bit off.

 

Last year Sunset Ridge was basically melted out after the fourth of july weekend - with a lot of rockfall at that point. Less snowfall this year, but who knows what the next few weeks will bring.

 

I don't think that anyone really knows what the current condition of this route is because no one's been on it yet this year. Post a TR if you go!