[TR] Red Mountain- up NW face, down SW face 12/23/2004

[Gary_Yngve]

Climb: Red Mountain-up NW face, down SW face

 

Date of Climb: 12/23/2004

 

Trip Report:

Five of us headed up Red Mountain, hoping to catch some good views despite the crummy snow conditions. There wasn't much snow, and it was hard and firm along the trail. At Red Pass, we took a gully upward for a few hundred feet that consisted of nice styrofoam snow. The gully exited onto the upper face, where we found nowhere near enough snow over choss and slabs. After painstaking excavations of good holds, we walked to the summit. Descending the SW face was easier, but there still wasn't enough snow to feel comfortable plunge-stepping down. Every once in a while there'd be just 2-3 inches of snow over rock. Toward the bottom we had to meander around some more rocks, but we all got down without too much trouble.

 

I'll post a few pics later.

 

Gear Notes:

all of us should have had helmets

 

didn't ever need snowshoes

[Alpine_Dreamer]

I attempted der Toofen last Tuesday (Winter Solstice ) with a couple folks and experienced similar flailing. We expected a cruise climb, and possibly a swing by Chair to check on conditions there. We were promply cold-cocked by the wet snow/ice covered rock (we didn't bring tools or 'poons). Hopefully the only time I'll have to see aided 5.4 climbing.

[Gary_Yngve]

Edited December 28, 2004 by Gary_Yngve

[Alpinfox]

 

Nice pics Gary. I thought about heading up to Red Mtn yesterday, but opted for rock climbin' at Erie instead.

 

Der Toofen... Hopefully the only time I'll have to see aided 5.4 climbing.

 

 

So how far did you get? That first section is probably the toughest in winter.

[Gary_Yngve]

I should add that we had five of us plus gear in a sedan. SUVs suck!