[TR] Ingalls Peak, North Peak- South Ridge 9/25/2004

[Dr_Crash]

Climb: Ingalls Peak, North Peak-South Ridge

 

Date of Climb: 9/25/2004

 

Trip Report:

Another fine alpine outing with Chriss after last weekl's. This place is really gorgeous, and the proximity of Mt Stuart adds to that great landscape.

 

Summitpost.org links, as we didn't have a camera: Ingalls Peak, North Peak, and its South Ridge route.

 

We left the East side at 6:30, arrived at the trailhead at 8 something. Spent a bit of time in the parking lot, and then left for the peak, which we reached after 11. After eating a quick lunch while waiting for a party of 2 in front of us to move off the first pitch, we set up for climbing. The climb went easy, so easy I wish we had done the 5.6 variation (much thinner crack in the middle of the slab). Another time. We rapped off. There are tons of rappel anchors. When going up as well as down we skipped a couple, by doing some scrambling in the middle of the climb, and when going down by downclimbing maybe 15 feet or so to save us a rappel. The first pitch is long and you need to downclimb the first crack too (we had a 60 m rope).

 

This place is really beautiful. A great two-day / one night trip would be to go there, climb one route or two on North Peak the first day, camp down below the lake, and then do a few climbs on East Peak the next day, and go back home.

 

And of course, now that I've seen Mt Stuart, I want to climb it

 

drC

 

Gear Notes:

Used rock shoes, mostly to be able to get out of the hiking boots in that heat.

 

A few nuts, Chriss' favorite #11 hex, and camalots #2 and #3.

 

Approach Notes:

We used "Selected Climbs in the Cascade" to get to the route. The directions to the trailhead and then to the pass were pretty imprecise and ambiguous. We supplemented some with my copy of Beckey's. If the route is in the volume of SC that will be reprinted soon, it'd be nice to improve the directions.

[Harry_Pi]

Hello capitalist!

Fantastic trip report Dr Crack.

Thank you for allow commie to post.