scrambled_legs Posted September 15, 2004 Share Posted September 15, 2004 Yes, once again looking for some more East Coast beta. It's official I am going to Toronto but before I move out of Cornwall I want to hit Rumney. Anyone climb there and what would you suggest? Looks like a lot of stiff sport routes, should be fun. The beta on the Daks and the Gunks was awesome, it worked out perfect. I couldn't believe how many quality climbs we were able to to hit in the Gunks. Direct Erect is insane. I've never seen so many easy routes with wild roofs. Cheers to all you Eastcoaster's making this Westcoaster feel at home. I'll have to buy you all a if I ever run into any of you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken4ord Posted September 15, 2004 Share Posted September 15, 2004 Rumney is a fun sporto area. Most of the climbs are short and stout. The meadows is the first crag right by the parking lot, it has a large concentration of easier sport climbs any where from 5.6-11c or so. Holderness Corner is a nice 9+ trad line (obvious corner in the middle of the cliff to chains) the arete right of the corner next to it is a nice climb too, I remember it being easy 10 clip up. Captian Fingers is a good short face 11b. All of the climbs in this area are well travel, pretty decent, not too steep like other areas, overall a good intro to the area. My all time favorite sporto route is Waimea 10d/11a, it is on the Waimea Wall on the lefthand side. It is one of the easier routes on this wall. It is where the Fly is and several others hard climbs. It is worth the trek up there for that route. I don't climb to hard, so Waimea is the only one I have done on that wall. Above and to the right of Waimea is a small crag that has some nice 10s the blunted arete Lonesome Dove (?) is my favorite up there. The Main Wall has a mixture of sport and trad lines and routes can be several pitches. That where you want to go for multi-pitch stuff. If you want to do some bouldering as you drive into Rumney you hang a left to get to the parking lot, if you keep going down the road on your right there is the Blackjack Boulder, do lightening crack it will be easy to spot out it is the classic, or you can make a right and there some boulders right next to the road. Not as big as the Blackjack area still good. Whatever you climb in Rumney make sure you got some thick pads, the rock over there is super aggressive. Check out North Conway for some just stellar granite rock climbing. The North Conway area has a good balance of climbs that will suit anyone. Also, right up the road from Rumney (1 hr north) is Cannon, it is a great 1000 foot alpine granite cliff. The routes to do there are Whitney Gillman 5.8, Moby Grape 5.8, Lakeview 5.5 (well actually not sure about Lakeview now it may have been destroyed when the Old Man decided to drop. I wouldn't reccomend Cannon in the spring big pieces come off then, it is usually settled by summer. Have fun you moved out to that area just in time for the best part of the year for climbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Distel32 Posted September 15, 2004 Share Posted September 15, 2004 rumney looks sooooo good......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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