[TR] Icicle- 8 Mile Buttress to Icicle Ridge 9/6/2004

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Climb: Icicle-8 Mile Buttress to Icicle Ridge

 

Date of Climb: 9/6/2004

 

Trip Report:

Kyle Flick and I viewed 8 Mile Buttress from Hook Creek last week and decided it might be interesting to climb the buttress all the way to the Icicle Ridge crest, and hike back to the Icicle Ridge TH near Leavenworth to make it a loop. The goal was simple: Climb Mr. Tremendous, and just keep going.

 

We started out on the excellent two pitches of Mr. Tremendous. If you're headed up there to climb the Tree Route, you should skip it and climb Mr. Tremendous. The first pitch has fun moves with mixed pro, 5.9. And the second pitch is a short cruxy bulge move, well protected at 5.10b. From the top, we hiked up to Smorgasbord area, and climbed Rambling Man. It's a great, clean route with a cool chimney on the first pitch that felt 5.8, and protected well. The second pitch has a short roof move off the belay at 5.10, bolt protected, which leads to fun face and crack climbing above for a 150 foot pitch. From the top, we moved along 4th class terrain to a 120 foot slab pitch. Topping out on the slab, there is much more to climb, but we didn't have enough time. The scramble to the ridge crest is scenic, with just a bit of bushwacking. Nice views of Hook and Rat Creek Drainages, Mt. Stuart, Dragontail. The hike down Icicle Ridge trail takes forever from the top of the buttress, but you get cool looks down into Tumwater Canyon.

 

 

Smorgasbord Crag

 

Kyle leading the 1st pitch. Can't tell much from this crappy photo, sorry.

 

Above Smorgasbord on 4th class terrain.

 

Approaching the slab on upper right corner.

 

Looking down from the top of the slab.

 

 

Hook Creek and Rat Creek Drainages

 

Gear Notes:

Medium rack, one 60m rope.

 

Approach Notes:

Short hike right off the road.

[Alpinfox]

Cool!

 

Can you really see Stuart from Icicle ridge?

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Yep. You get a good look at Ice Cliff Glacier and entire north side. Looked like there was a skiff of new snow as well.

[Chriznitch]

was this from the recent fire?

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I think it was the Bridge Creek Fire two years ago, but I'm not sure.