Hotlum Bolum Ridge

[deskjockie]

My 13 year old son and I plan to try the Hotlum Bolum ridge route this weekend. Anyone have info on:

 

directions to trailhead (Northgate - 6900'?)

campsite elevations (with water)?

conditions of route above 10,000'?

 

We plan to only have axes/crampons. Don't intend to rope up - too much weight differential.

 

Thanks for any current info you have on this route

[Chriznitch]

the info below comes directly from this site: Mt Shasta climbers' guide

 

Northgate Trailhead: The trail is melted out to the high camp. Water is running at the high camp. Glacier travel and route finding skills are recommended on routes accessible from this trailhead. The West Hotlum Bergschrund is open (12,000 ft, below the Step) and is difficult to see from above - use caution on your descent. Skirt this schrund on the West side (climbers right) when going up the Hotlum Bolam Ridge route, and stay left of it when descending. The Guides on the north side have reported this area as having the iciest conditions. Expect icy patches above 11,000. Many of the upper chutes have become icy. Watch for weak snow bridges and seracs during hot summer days. The Bolam chute is melted out at around 13,200; and also on the Hotlum-Bolam crossing at 13,700.

[deskjockie]

Thank you very much. I'm most interested in the hike to high camp (distance, elevation, water, etc.). Any info about that would be great. Also, I've heard the road system to the trailhead is confusing - any suggestions?

Thanks again.

[Chriznitch]

I've never been to the North Gate trailhead, but this is what the book says:

In Weed, turn at the stoplight onto US 97 North. Follow this 12.8 miles, then turn right (SE) onto Military Pass Road. Follow this main road under railroad tracks, keeping left 4.8 miles from the highway. Continue through curves for another 3.5 miles, then turn right onto road 42N17. Keep left at 0.1 miles and continue climbing 0.6 miles to an old clearcut @ 6920'. This is the TH.

Good luck!

[Lambone]

did you try it?

[deskjockie]

Yes we did. Got to the high camp to find one guided party and one ranger. Half the guided party turned around at the bershrund. The other half (1 guide, 2 clients) summitted taking 15 hours round-trip from the high camp.

 

The ranger and guide both strongly discouraged my son and me from climbing above the shrund (~12,000') due to the icy conditions. They were right. The entire Hotlum was ice, much of which was bullet proof. We were able to crampon, unroped, to 12,000' with a modest amount of fear and then turned around there. Out of our league to press on from there.

 

Beautiful route though and one we will try again next June or early July.

[Lambone]

that's too bad. I'm planning to try again a bit earliet next year also.

 

not-so steep ice sucks to travel across. hope you guys had fun anyway!