[TR] Colchuck Balanced Rock- NW Butt/N Ridge 8/14/

[slothrop]

Climb: Colchuck Balanced Rock-NW Butt/N Ridge

 

Date of Climb: 8/14/2004

 

Trip Report:

eric8 and I climbed the northwest butt on CBR last Saturday. We did what these guys did after discovering that the upper part of the route kinda fell off--we scrambled off into the north ridge gully to the top. On the buttress itself, we had some fun and licheny climbing for four pitches, up to 5.8.

 

I wrote a long and rambling TR in my usual detailed style here (including pitch-by-pitch description lacking in Beckey):

 

http://bodenner.net/~rkb/climb/cbr-aug-14-2004.php

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

small rack to 3"

60m rope

water filter would be nice

 

Approach Notes:

long, especially on 2 hours sleep

 

new alpine bouldering area (formerly the upper portion of the route) in the basin below W face