[TR] Sherpa Peak- West Ridge 7/24/2004

[Dustin_B]

Climb: Sherpa Peak-West Ridge

 

Date of Climb: 7/24/2004

 

Trip Report:

This past Saturday, Tony, Ken and I climbed the West Ridge of Sherpa Peak. We left the Esmeralda trailhead at 7:30 AM and rolled into the 7,400-foot camp below Sherpa's south face at 1:15 PM. Not knowing what else to do, we decided to tag the summit that afternoon. Left camp at 2 PM, at the notch/base at 2:30 PM, on the summit by 6:30 PM, and back at camp by 8:30 PM to enjoy the sunset.

 

 

The West Ridge is unremarkable and it’s definitely not a ‘classic line’ but it was still lots of fun. There are actually only two full pitches of climbing. The first needs to be split into two though because the rope drag is heinous (rap stations make good belays). The third and fourth “pitches” are actually just exposed scrambling. Although we pitched them out on the way up, we down climbed them unroped on the way down. The fifth and final pitch is the fun “crux” pitch (5.4).

 

Final pitch; I'm sitting at the belay at the bottom of the pitch.

 

Me leading the final pitch

 

Balancing rocks on summit, way cool.

 

Another cool shot of the balancing rocks from the descent

 

 

 

Sherpa only sees about 5-6 ascents per year according to the summit log and we certainly didn’t see anyone around, which was sweet. I can see why, the approach is a little bit of work but not too bad, and there is not that much climbing. It is also a little loose. Awesome views of Stuart and the Stuart range plus a very cool balancing rock formation on the summit. There is a bit of looseness but pretty good pro. More experienced climbers can definitely solo this route. I did the West Ridge of Stuart last year and that is a better line but much longer. This had the best camp site of the year so far though!!

 

Mod - can some one fix these pictures, I suck.

 

Gear Notes:

Medium rack; nuts, tricams, cams to #3. Water at 7400 foot level for probably another 2-3 weeks. Water at 6,200-foot level probably year round??? Had two ropes but did single rope rappels (x4) because of rope drag. Got poison ivy on approach somewhere

 

Approach Notes:

Follow trail for Cascadian Couloir on Stuart then traverse right and up a ridge at about 5000 feet (climbers path at times). At 5800 feet on the ridge contour around into the basin. Head for the Stuart-Sherpa col.

[wrench]

thanks for the report, dustin. and nice pics. we're going this weekend -- did you come across any snow up there? wondering about crampons/axes. thanks!

[Dustin_B]

No need for axe or crampons whatsoever.

[wrench]

Thanks. Wow, pretty unspectacular climb. Hard to believe such nice granite can have so much loose shit all over the place. Awesome bivy on that rock though.