[TR] Triumph- NE Ridge (NF Recon) 7/25/2004

[layton]

Climb: Triumph-NE Ridge (NF Recon)

 

Date of Climb: 7/25/2004

 

Trip Report:

Jay and I went to scope the N.F. central rib on triumph yesterday with hopes of climbing it. After much sketchyness, it would've been two long double rope raps into a very broken glacier. Not for me! Triumph pass is the way to go. It says 8 hours for that way, but I think we were pushing 7 by the time we were turned around via descendign from the notch.

So we did the NE ridge instead. It was a lot easier than it looked, in fact it is a trail in some places! We simuled the whole thing, cliping mostly rap anchors and an occasional piece (like two) for the 2nd. It would be a very fun solo. The raps were very quick with one rope, vs a rope gnarl with two. 90minutes up, 90 minutes down. We simul rapelled.

The most beautiful place in the world, but for 90min of climbing in an 18hour day.....not quite worth it. Good recon for the N.F., however.

BTW, the NF ribs look like multipitch Boatlaunches (the larabee s.p. climb that is).

 

Gear Notes:

1 rope

strap-on poons

very small rack

5 slings

 

Approach Notes:

3 hours to the pass is total crap! Check it out. Beckey says 3 hours to col from car, yet the climb takes THREE DAYS to TWO LONG DAYS??!!?? So after the 3 hour stroll, Beckey, it takes 2-2.5 days to cross 1 mile of glacier and 1200' of 4th class? What the hell are you on?

[Szyjakowski]

thanks for the beta!

[layton]

We were gonna do the SE ridge descent for the N.F., but since we wound up doing the NE ridge and dumped a shit ton of gear we didn't need, we wound up doing the NE ridge descent also. I would reccomend this as the descent. It only took 90 minutes. I suggest simul-rapelling.

 

Bring lots of TAT and a knife to beef up the anchors. There are some ready to be refreshed!