[TR] Mt. Maude- North Faace 7/24/2004

[Luna]

Climb: Mt. Maude-North Faace

 

Date of Climb: 7/24/2004

 

Trip Report:

Camped above Leroy basin, accessed via SF Jack/Maude col. Crossing over the rock ribs was easy - if it gets to be 4th class you're in the wrong place. Snow was excellent. Ice for last 60 ft or so. More confident climbers could leave the rope at home, last 60 ft of ice could be bypassed on rock. But this is likely to change as it was hot over there.

 

Also left crampons in bag atop the route - see lost and found.

 

Gear Notes:

3 pickets, 7mm rope, several screws but used only one.

[ski_photomatt]

I may have run into you during the descent - you mentioned something about descending down an easy gully that turned harder, then had to climb back up to the top? I was walking up to bivy on the summit. I didn't go down to the top of the N. Face route, so didn't see your crampons, sorry.

[Luna]

Twas us. The "easy gully" Nelson talks about directly west was not to be found. A trip report in the ranger station also indicated an epic on the decent. We opted for the easier way down via the shoulder leading towards Ice Lakes, then a long travers back to Leroy Basin.