need beta on Success Cleaver

[Alex_Mineev]

Is there any snow left on it or it's bare choss this time of year?

[Terry_McClain]

I went up to 10'500 on it as a day hike on the 11th of July and only had to touch snow once or twice. From there it was almost all snow with maybe a rock band or two to cross. I posted a few pic's in my gallery as well.

Park rangers had climbed it the day before and following is from NP web site:

Success Cleaver: A climbing patrol conducted July 9th discovered conditions on the cleaver to be rocky and melted out. From the north side of Pyramid Peak around 7,000 feet, following the ridge above the Success Glacier was very rocky with small patches of snow. Obvious bivouac sites become apparent at around 9,500 feet. The traverse onto the Success Headwall is melting quickly. Loose rock plagues the normal traverse, making it necessary to climb the ridge until 11,000 feet before journeying off the ridge. Once on the headwall, hard-consolidated snow gullies made for great climbing. Large sun-cups around 12,500 feet impedes swift progress. Rock fall is a big concern on this route, wear a helmet and try not to travel in the heat of the day. There were no open crevasses on the route up to Point Success.

[Alex_Mineev]

Thanks!

I submitted forms for solo permit about two months ago and finally got it... Looks like too late.

We'll see.