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[TR] Colchuck Peak- NBC 6/25/2004


Juan

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Climb: Colchuck Peak-NBC

 

Date of Climb: 6/25/2004

 

Trip Report:

Friend Jon Heller and I had a day (Friday 6/25) to burn at a wedding celebration this past weekend in Leavenworth. While everyone else rafted the Wesnatchee, we went to the NBC on Colchuck. I have climbed this route three times, but always in April or May. Never in late June. Jon had never been up Colchuck.

 

Right now the NBC looks much like the pictures in Nelson/Pothead Vol. I, second ed. Pretty melted out in the middle. It went snow, rock, snow, rock, snow to the top of the gully. With the extreme heat, one big rock fell from the top of the gully but kindly stayed on the snow at a point where we were climbers' right on the rock. The rock climbing is 3rd/4th Class for the most part with maybe two low 5th moves. The snow was so soft we never donned crampons. We double plunged the whole thing. The upper face is always fun. You can take snow the whole way up the face once you leave the ledge system.

 

I'd say this route has a few more weeks left in it.

 

Gear Notes:

Placed three pickets and three cams to 1'.

 

Approach Notes:

Dry to the top of the moraine.

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