Kautz or the finger?

[wally]

Heading up one of the two next weekend, Leaning more towards the Kautz. Anyone been up recently that can give me some route information? How is the lower nisqually and what route would you prefer? thanks

[Gary_Yngve]

Summited via the Kautz earlier today. Ramp through the ice cliff was nice neve in the early morniing, excellent cramponing and bomber picket placements. I doubt there was snow steeper than 40 degrees. Later in the day the slope softened up (crampons were balling like hell but not soft enough for plunge-stepping); we down-climbed carefully. We were able to do a rising traverse through the icefall onto the ramp, avoiding dropping down and left to the bottom of the ramp. The lower Nisqually has nary a crack on it; on the way out we chose not to rope up.

[russ]

Finger is still in excellent conditions, although the bridge at the top of the finger getting onto the ridge line is melting out fast. Summited yesterday via the route and was able to ski/board all of it, except that 300' section. The finger itself was excellent - smooth with slight crust at the top, but the rest was butter...

[wally]

I have been thinking of a snowboard descent. sounds like you both had a blast. only prob with the boarding is my climbing buddies got no skills on skis or a board. long walk for them fun run for me

thanks for the posts

[Gary_Yngve]

some pictures:

 

http://www.cs.washington.edu/homes/gyngve/KautzGlacier/

[wally]

beautiful pics! I am jones'n to get my climb underway.

[skyclimb]

Check the gallery for a picture of the south side of the mountain... Taken yesterday