Gear for Jeff Park Glacier route

[alienPDX]

Looking into a climb/snowboard descent of the Jefferson Park Glacier route in a couple of weeks and was wondering if anyone has suggestions for what gear to bring as far as rock or ice pro. From what I have already gathered, staying to the climber's left side of the glacier lets you avoid most of the crevasse hazard until the 'schrund at the top of the glacier-- mostly wondering about protecting traverses and the summit pinnacle (ascending as well as descending).

 

Thanks.

[iain]

several pickets, the requisite double-length "cascade" slings, and perhaps a midsize hex or two and a few nuts to protect the ridge section if you feel you need it (the rock climbing is quite easy, but there is some serious exposure).

[ckouba]

I haven't been paying much attention to conditions lately as I recently broke my collarbone, but here's a TR from my trip with Wazzumoutaineer last year:

 

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB7&Number=195440&page=1&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1

 

Our conditions were par for the course in June for the Cascades: glacier was well compacted and easily run, one simple step ~5' to clear the schrund, the ridge was completely encapsulated in rime ice and feathery snow, but it seemed to hold tools well enough and the summit pinnacle was the same as well.

 

We chose to come down the east face as the time of day didn't seem to warrant trying to stick tools back into the rime on the ridge. We downclimbed from the summit and rapped off the southern gendarme on the north-to-south ridge. It was straightforward, but steep and soupy. There was a bit of a cornice above us til we got lower but things were settled enough that we trusted it.

 

I'm not sure this helps you select your gear as the ridge may be dry at this point. I was on it 2 Decembers ago (the most recent VERY dry year) and it was entirely different. There was a GREAT ice wall ~60' to get to the ridge and only a few feathers of rime and lots of tool hooking and chunky rock climbing on the ridge. Nothing overly taxing, but like Iain said the exposure would be attention getting. We bailed about 30m from making the turn to the summit pinnacle when my partner became sketched. I was bummed...

 

My advice would be heavy on the slings as the rock on the ridge seemed well suited to that on my December trip and then chose a mix of pickets (mine are 2') and a screw or two, plus a small mix of rock pro. You can shift the balance depending on what you see on your way.

 

Beyond that, have fun! I really enjoyed that route. Good luck.

 

Chris

 

--EDIT--

 

I just realized our climb was June 14th, so your conditions may very well be similar. CK

Edited June 7, 2004 by ckouba

[alienPDX]

Thanks to you and iain for the info. Hoping the weather will clear towards the end fo the week and looking forward to the trip.