[TR] Wedge Mt.- The Chisel and Heronhead 5/31/2004

[Kyle_Flick]

Climb: Wedge Mt.-The Chisel and Heronhead

 

Date of Climb: 5/31/2004

 

Trip Report:

Telemarker's persistence about climbing some obscure tower on Wedge Mt. (above Leavenworth) paid off when I relented and had him and his friend Ed take me to "The Chisel" this past Memorial Day. I still don't know how he found it, but Beckey and others first climbed it a half century ago (Ira Spring's photo found in the A.A.J.,1950). I looked at this as a consolation prize for my two previous failed attempts on the Flagpole. But the north face sports a stellar 5.9 pitch! As the pictures in the Gallery attest a perfect hand crack with some offwidth tossed in leading up to a small summit in a unique position to peer down at the Snow Lakes and surrounding peaks of the Enchantments. The old timers avoided the wide crack on the right in favor of an incipient crack but easier face climb on the left as evidenced by the old fixed pins. Armed with our modern day wide pro we chose the right side as it was easier to protect. On the west face, Beckey's Guide rates the climb as only 5.9, but it sports an overhanging offwidth that more likely is 5.10+.

Unwilling to have only climbed one pitch for the day, we headed back up toward the crest of Wedge Mt. and put Telemarker to the task of leading us to the top of "The Heronhead". The route climbs up the west side and circles around to the north through a shallow chimney. The bouldery move onto the head of the heron does require an old school shoulder stand. The anchor from the top for the 100' rap is now fixed with a new sling and locker.

For those of you who have a yearning for cragging with an alpine feel, you may want to give these relics a go. I'm glad I did.

 

 

Gear Notes:

Pro to 3.5"

 

Approach Notes:

Hike 2 miles up to the saddle lookout of Wedge Mt. and traverse to the north for quarter of mile until you spot the Heronhead to the west. Then take a series of steep gullies and ledges down and south 350' to the Chisel.

[Bug]

Cool history project. Thanks.