[TR] Shuksan- Sulphide Glacier 5/15/2004

[Elevation]

Climb: Shuksan-Sulphide Glacier

 

Date of Climb: 5/15/2004

 

Trip Report:

Crew of seven pulled into the Shannon Creek trailhead around 10:30 on Friday night. Squeezed by the Western group and settled in next to a couple of other cars for a few hours shut-eye. Up at 3, trail by 4, one group of two ahead of us by about 20 minutes.

 

Changed into our ski boots after about 45 minutes of mostly snow-free trail, right where the old road ends and the path heads straight toward the ridge crest. We ended up packing the skis almost all the way to the notch since the snow was still hard-frozen and easy walking. Broke out axes to cross the steep slope after the notch and then humped up to the camp at 6200 for our first real break, passing the pair who left before us as we went.

 

We finally got to put our skis on our feet there, pulling out around nine. The long, rolling slog to the base of the pyramid took another two and a half hours or so, but was made less painful by gorgeous views under a high ceiling of clouds.

 

We decided, during the long break to melt snow and take a much needed breather, that the ski down would be more fun than the summit pyramid and the building clouds around Baker reinforced that choice. We had perfect corn for the first 2000 feet, followed by buttery mashed potatoes until we hit the ridge, at which point it was pine-needle survival skiing. Back to the car at 4:45 for beer, sausage sandwiches and some sweet trailhead snoozing.

 

Glacier's in beautiful shape -- fantastic skiing. We could've been quite a bit quicker, I think, had we not had the extra gear for the summit gully. Training weight, we'll call it. Gully's still full of snow and looks in fine shape.

 

Hello to Pete and John, from down Tacoma way! How was the weather?

 

Gear Notes:

Skis, skins, axes. Had crampons, helmets, pickets and a couple of screws. Might've been useful on the gully, had we done it.

 

Approach Notes:

Trail mostly snow-free to clearcut. Continuous snow from just below ridge. Light hikers highly recommended.

[fenderfour]

I was up there on Saturday too. I was with a huge group of 12 slogging up the hill without skis. Near white-out conditions kept us off the pyramid as 8 of our party of 12 were basic climbing students. It was a good time and it showed the students what it was like to slog 6000' feet in one day.

 

The glacier was a bit evil for kicking steps. A crust seemed to let go with every other step. We were told that the gulley had about 3" of snow over the rock. It would have made for an interesting climb.

 

One more thing - there was a group of 6-8 climbers that walked right through our camp at 4600' on Sunday morning. Learn some manners jackasses.

[Elevation]

FF,

 

We didn't envy the weather you guys were getting on Saturday -- were you the BoeAlps crew? I think we skied by you around 2, just after the steep traverse, around 5800. That crust you had to contend with was evil -- we had to boot it across a couple of flat sections on the way down. Miserable. Glad your class had fun -- sorry about the loud crew on Sunday...

[fenderfour]

We were the Boealps crew. Another Basic Class is over. (almost)