Lost Arrow Spire traverse

[Guest]

I apologize for ignorance and lack of homework done but I can't figure out how to retrieve the ropes after the Tyrollean if the distance from the top of the spire to the rim is longer than 50m.

Also what is the quickest way to pass a knot on rappel? I can only come up with using 2 prusiks or at least one...

And, as long as we're about it, how many cams does one need to free the 10a fist crack?

Thank you.

[rbw1966]

Doesn't the guidebook talk about all of the above?

If not, there was an issue of one of the climbing rags that had specific beta on how to do the Lost Arrow Spire. I don't recall which--perhaps a search of their website would help?

For an example of how NOT to do it, I recommend reading John Long's book concerning epics.

Hope that helps.

Rob

[Guest]

Apologies to everyone, the Supertopos has all the beta, the distance is 140' so no problem.

Issue closed.

BTW, the Yosemite Big Walls: Supertopos book and their site are Supergreat!!!

[Charlie]

I did this route last summer, Bad ass! To pass the knot on the rappel, I used 2 a.t.c.'s. When I got towards the knot, I tied in short, Clipped a jummar with aider attached to the rope and stood on it. Clip the rope below the knot into the second a.t.c. and walk down the aider till you weight the rope and continue the rappel. Your rappel point is a tree toward the rim. There will be no slings on it. The first pitch starts with 10d pinscars and then into the "fistcrack". Its a total sandbag- Unless you specialize in overhanging offwidth. I used aliens in the pinscars And #3 and #4 cams on the offwidth- I actually french freed it so I had to leapfrog, bring all the big cams you can get. The rest of the route is easy aid, lots of 3/8 bolts without hangers- I just slipped nuts over the bolt heads. Have fun, get ready for some butt wrenching exposure!

[Charlie]

Just wanted to add, my description of passing the knot is probably not the textbook method, just the way I did it. The important thing is to clip a bite of rope from below before you do any thing, that way youre covered no matter how bad you screw it up.

[Guest]

Thank you!