[TR] Mt Baker- North Ridge 4/10/2004

[scandere]

Climb: Mt Baker-North Ridge

 

Date of Climb: 4/10/2004

 

Trip Report:

We were able to park within 1.5 miles of the Heliotrope Trailhead--but at the rate of melting I would guess it gets closer every day. Once we gained the Coleman Glacier, we were able to make a fairly direct and easy traverse across the Rosevelt Glacier (usually infamous) and bivvy April 10th just below the North Ridge. The next morning we gained the ridge via the steep western slope under solid snow conditions. We spent the most time finding our way through the ice wall halfway up the route. Instead of the more gentle description described to us, we encountered at least 200 ft of difficult 60-90 degree non-linear ice (I say non-linear if you want to aviod overhanging glacier ice). Being unfamiliar with historical ice conditions on the route, the ice we encountered was slick, glassy, and bulletproof. Above the ice wall is continuous 40-50 degree snow to the summit. Pretty solid and straight-forward. Beware of thinly covered cravasses above the icewall (my partner partially fell in one). We descended via the coleman-demming.

 

Gear Notes:

definitely needed aggressive crampons and two ice tools. we had 6 screws, could have used a few more to lengthen the runnout on the ice wall.

 

Approach Notes:

If you are planning on this route I would suggest snowshoes if you can manage the weight. THe lower Coleman and parts of the approach involve some pretty nasty post-holeing.

[Chad_A]

Nice! I hope to do the NR or the Coleman Headwall this year, either/or. Good to know how things are up there....thanks for the heads-up

[mattyg]

Nice work. I've climber Baker numerous times but always via the easy routes. Would this be a good first climb to sink my tools into steep stuff in the mountains? Will the conditions be easier or harder later in the year?

[catbirdseat]

If you go too late in the year (late June or July), the approach over the Coleman/Roosevelt Glaciers becomes more circuitous, I am told.