Exit 38

[knatapow]

Has anyone been up to Exit 38 lately? Are there any areas that seem to be drier than others. Any info is helpful....

[mikeadam]

pretty much everything is dry after a few days...you could climb there today...where you driving from bro? Talkeetna...

[knatapow]

I am here in Seattle and was thinking of heading out on Sunday if we have a few days of decent weather. Thanks for the info. Do you know of any particular crags that are better off around this time of year?

Kevin

[Bob_Clarke]

Little Si has been dry. A day or two of sunand all the best routes at world wall go.

[Guest]

At X38 best early-season choices would begin with Farside. This wall faces approximately south; even if the Deception Crags are dry, this early in the year they are still way cold; cold hands and fingers just aren't fun, at least in my opinion.

Farside has lots of easy and moderate routes, but few harder than easy 5.11. The last route on the right is a 7 but it's likely quite wet, so call it a 9. The next route left should never be attempted, it's just plain gross, dirt and chossy rock, groveling in a shaded dihedral, it's rated 9? The next route would be excellent right now, it's a 9 and has a short variation that's 9 or 10A. Excellent position and you top out, into full sunshine (assuming it's sunny).

There are several more 7's, 8's and 9's along the wall; some will be moist until May, but with that in mind, they are still climable albeit a bit more challenging.

Those 10 routes farthest right on the wall receive the most sun of any crag in X38 or X32.

If you're looking for moderates (10A - 10C) then there are many that begin in broken sunlight through the trees but reach above the timber into direct south-facing sunshine!

Other choices for early season would include (though these all face north.....) Write Off Rock - 5 easy routes that are always dry (no surface flow running off from above). Nevermind wall has a few routes that can be climbed while actively raining, and a few more don't get wet from surface runnoff from above. This wall caters to hard moderates (10C+) though there are a few easier that are whorthwhile. We Did Rock (wall of 9's) on the right most route can be done in marginale conditions. And those 2 newer routes put in by that french guy, way east on the railroad grade, just before the new mega-bridge, those don't receive runoff from above.

If you don't mind dressing for winter alpine conditions the Peannacle and several new unpublished walls above dry quickly from open exposure to steady winds.

David.