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[TR] rambles (duffey lake road)- left and centre 2/19/2004


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Climb: rambles (duffey lake road)-left and centre

 

Date of Climb: 2/19/2004

 

Trip Report:

had to suss out the rambles in detail for the guide, so spent the day up there with briang. climbed all tiers on central rambles, rapped out, then scooted up the lower left (did both left and right steps at top of lower section) and plugged up snow to top left tier. the main flow has gone discontinuos at top, where it drops over the two rock overhangs, but there is a 2-abalakov station set at the top of the 15m of fine ice beneath that. backed the threads up with a screw after leading the column (gr4-), and TR'ed the hell out of the hard, direct stuff (and the mixed) on the left side. a really fun day.

ice overall was very compliant, with a tendancy to surface plating (i think because it's still forming thick layers each nite).

it was warm enuf that the surface snow was getting sticky and some pinwheels were forming, but most of the ice was only damp, not running. it'll freeze again hard at nite for the foreseeable future. it was 0ºC overnite in lillooet last nite, and the forecast is 4 days of about the same; high was +7ºC today in lillooet (maybe +2ºC at the rambles), with the next 4 days about the same. the season is a LONG way from over - fact is, the ice is just getting fatter and more plastic.

cheers,

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