oregon jack

[Bogen]

Hi folks. We'ld like to climb Oregon Jack this weekend, and would appreciate some beta, or at least directions. -we don't have much of a guide to the area and only started ice climbing out here this year. thanks

[Lambone]

Hey, it's a cool climb.

 

Dirve up HWY 1 towards Cache Creek. About 20K before Cache Creek, turn left on Hat Creek Road. Watch close, it is a small sign and easy to miss. It is about 20 minutes south of Cache Creek.

 

Dive up the plowed but snowy and ice road for about 8km to the end. Park just past the last ranch. Don't try to drive up higher because it's easy to get stuck, and theree is no place to turn around. You can spot the climb from here on the left, low on the cliff band past the ranchers pasture. Search around for a good hole in the trees, it's is down low.

 

Don't jump the ranchers fence to cut through his field! it looks like there are tracks, but they are horse and cattle prints. Access is a sensitive issue here, so far he is cool with climbers, but there are more of us now.

 

Instead walk up te road for about 10 minutes up the hill. Once you are up aways past some curves, cut into the woods. If you run into his fnce here, follow it for a while and eventualy you can get through, at the top of the hill it kinda goes away under some big fallen logs.

 

Now contour back down the hilslide. It's kinda tucked in te corner of that cliff band, hard to see until you are right there.

 

The climb - 1 full 60 meter pitch. or there is a belay ledge half way. its mostly moderate grade 3, but steepend to 3+ for 20-30 ft at the top. Good topout, bolts on the rock to the right. or tree anchors.

 

Have fun great route

[Bogen]

thanks for the excellent directions. I expect we will sleep at the road tonight and climb it first thing in the morning