Alpine Rack again -pitons?

[Dru]

Moving discussion over from another thread: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=10&t=000444

What pitons do you take in the mountains?

Generally I take the ones noted, if taking pins. I usually only take pins if taking a hammerhead tool for snow approaches or descents. For a pure rock climb like on Old Settler I usually skip the weight f the hammer and so dont take pins, a biner full of RPs instead. Now that zeroCams are coming out maybe go with some of those although that would suck if it was your only option to rap off of.

Just an example of alpine racks in general I have taken:

NE face Redoubt (via rock pitches variant finish): 4 pickets for 3 people, 6 pitons, 7 Tri Cams 0.5 to 2.5 (some doubles), 8 shoulder slings w 2 biners each.

Purple People Eaters on Alpaca, Mars Western on Old Settler: "Squamish rack" of 10 nuts, 6 Tri cams 0.5 to 3, full set TCUs, camalots 1-3, 12 shoulder slings w 2 biners ea., 2 double length slings with 1 biner ea.

Salal creek routes: same rack as above plus 6 pins and #4 camalot. I guess a BigBro would be better in terms of weight. Its funny though, when I take the #4 I always find lots of placements for it

North face summer ice couloirs like Central couloir on Joffre or Snowy owl on the Owls: 1 picket per person, 6 ice screws, 6 pins, 4 tricams, 2 friends (#2 and #3), 8 shoulder slings.