Conditions: Baker North Side

[MarkAllen]

I spent the 12th-the 14th on the North Side of Baker and too much of my surprise the conditions of dramatically improved over the course of the last few storms. There are a few new inches of snice with this last storm that polished the peak nicely, cleaning up all the brown blemish. Looks good again and good foam stick. The North ridge and Head Wall look as to be in good shape. The wall look especially aesthetic with the new accumulation of snice. However the Roman Mustache and Pencil Thin routes are out for the season.

 

-Coleman /Deming:

This route is getting spicier by the day but has been improved by this last accumulation. The Coleman Gl. on the Heliotrope ridge directly above the Hogsback is very choppy. A route was forced in the last few days but not recommended (I saw lots of head scratching). Instead go way right along the Hogback before beginning an ascent up clean snow/ice fields then wrapping around back and above all the chop and the obvious rock island (that is seen from the hogs back) This route will get you to the C/D route with out much trouble or to the High camp at 7400ft below the black buttes AkA gargoyles camp. The route above here is the same and doesn't have any big surprises just some meandering. Pumice ridge (that doesn't have any pumice on it???? ) is dry. The roman wall is now covered with snow and is self are stable again.

 

-Approaches to the North ridge:

I recently saw two parties on the North Ridge so it is not cut off. The normal approach from the helio/black buttes is most likely out, so reported by a Madness guided group. A more direct and passable route would be to cross below the lower Coleman Gl. compression zone and cross the medial moraine/rock on to the Roosevelt Gl. near the falls, and ascend the main compression arterial that runs in the middle of the Gl. directly to the base of the North ridge proper. You can get to this alley by crossing (at a 45 degree) the lower Roosevelt compression under a small icefall. Approached this way last Sept. Gets spicy. Send it. But looks like it could be good.

 

-Approaches to Head Wall:

same as to the north ridge but continue under the right side of the North Ridge and across a large avalanche slide path. Be quick, I saw the largest avy of my life there. Then to the base of head wall to the right side were the route begins.

 

I hope this is useful to someone, Have a great climb and tell me how it goes.

 

 

[miller]

you must be one of them mountain climber guys....